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  #1  
Old 03-26-2017, 08:01 PM
chiefjameszophy chiefjameszophy is offline
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Default 05 int 4300 dt466

My rollback just stopped running one day. DTC codes . I've checked the wiring, fuses, changed ICP, cam, crank, temp sensors. Sent injectors out to be tested. Brought the truck in warmed the garage to 70 two days and ran salamander on block. Truck started and idles fine but pops and chokes at 1500 rpms. Black smoke pouring out. My codes say low voltage. Does anyone know if it's still a wiring issue or idm or ECM ? Please help I'm frustrated!

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  #2  
Old 03-26-2017, 08:20 PM
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MnTom MnTom is offline
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That sounds to me like it is either a shorted harness or the IDM, but I don't know for sure. Maybe my nephew knows since he knows the 7.3 as well as anyone I know. He just had one with a real mess in the injector harness plus a dead hole (no compression). It may take a day or two to see if I can get some info for you.
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1996 RAM "Custom Ground" 100 plate 3/4 forward, 300 injectors, 16.5 timing, Goerends Auto = 365HP, 833TQ Third Gen Rims, Aluminum Headache Rack
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Old 03-26-2017, 08:24 PM
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I did a little searching and this may be of some help:
Quote:
These codes are caused by the IDM or the ECM not getting power. The most common problem is bad connection. The best way to find out were your problem is. Is to start in the battery box you will have 2-3 fuse holders and a positive connector and a negative connector while the engine is running twist, shake, bend, pull on both connectors and fuse holders also remove fuse holder caps and wiggle the fuses around to, if the engine shuts of then you just found your bad connection if it does not work make your way through all the connectors and fuses and the follow the wires down the frame rail while shaking them violently you should make your way to two more connectors next to the starter do the same thing that you did to the ones in the battery box, again if the truck shuts down then you found your problem if not continue following the wires they should lead you to a twelve pin connector next to the grid heater do the same to that connector. Sometimes these wires rub on the leaf spring shackled and the battery box so make sure you look for any rubbed through wires as well.
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1996 RAM "Custom Ground" 100 plate 3/4 forward, 300 injectors, 16.5 timing, Goerends Auto = 365HP, 833TQ Third Gen Rims, Aluminum Headache Rack
Duct Tape can't fix stupid, BUT it can muffle the sound
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Old 03-26-2017, 10:03 PM
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79jasper 79jasper is offline
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Remove the idm and give it a good shake. On the pickups they were known to have water ingestion problems.

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1994 F350 7.3 PSD 4X4 ZF5 DUALLY
PHP HYDRA, 6637, 3-4 DP TO STRAIGHT 4 BEHIND THE TIRE, 1.0 EXHAUST HOUSING, DIY D66 TURBO, FUGA E-FUEL, EBPV DELETE. Cooper discoverer AT/3'S.

2010 VW JETTA TDI DSG Kerma tune. Hankook ventus v2 concept 2.

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Old 03-27-2017, 04:46 PM
chiefjameszophy chiefjameszophy is offline
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Thanks guys, I've shook, bent, twisted all the wires from the battery box to the IDM. The weather head near the starter has already been replaced. All relays, fuses, grounds tested and passed. I too believe it's a voltage issue. New symptom, truck will idle fine in warm garage once it sits outside it pops and skips as it does at 1500 Rpms in warm garage. I will try the IDM dry out and test my positive and negative on ECM.

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  #6  
Old 03-27-2017, 05:13 PM
chiefjameszophy chiefjameszophy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 79jasper View Post
Remove the idm and give it a good shake. On the pickups they were known to have water ingestion problems.

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I'll try it, thanks.

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Old 03-27-2017, 05:52 PM
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I just talked to my nephew and he said it sure sounds electrical. He said to check the injector harnesses where they pass through the valve covers. He told me those DTCs are in reality injector codes. Another thing to check is the throttle pedal. Since it is a 'fly by wire' set up, the rheostat on the pedal tells the ECM what it wants and commands the IDM to do what it wants. If there is a flaky reading from the pedal it can screw them up something fierce.
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1996 RAM "Custom Ground" 100 plate 3/4 forward, 300 injectors, 16.5 timing, Goerends Auto = 365HP, 833TQ Third Gen Rims, Aluminum Headache Rack
Duct Tape can't fix stupid, BUT it can muffle the sound
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Old 03-28-2017, 12:21 PM
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79jasper 79jasper is offline
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That would make sense.
If those are setup the same as the 7.3/T444E, the injector wiring runs through the valvecover. Typically called UVCH. Basically the glowplugs fry the harnesses.
You can pull the plugs and look for signs of melting.

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1994 F350 7.3 PSD 4X4 ZF5 DUALLY
PHP HYDRA, 6637, 3-4 DP TO STRAIGHT 4 BEHIND THE TIRE, 1.0 EXHAUST HOUSING, DIY D66 TURBO, FUGA E-FUEL, EBPV DELETE. Cooper discoverer AT/3'S.

2010 VW JETTA TDI DSG Kerma tune. Hankook ventus v2 concept 2.

http://badges.fuelly.com/images/sig-us/174421.png
http://badges.fuelly.com/images/sig-us/420711.png
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  #9  
Old 04-05-2017, 11:31 AM
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Anything new?
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1996 RAM "Custom Ground" 100 plate 3/4 forward, 300 injectors, 16.5 timing, Goerends Auto = 365HP, 833TQ Third Gen Rims, Aluminum Headache Rack
Duct Tape can't fix stupid, BUT it can muffle the sound
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  #10  
Old 04-06-2017, 06:37 AM
chiefjameszophy chiefjameszophy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MnTom View Post
Anything new?
I've cut out all the weatherpacks, new symptom - no start, no codes. I purchased a book written specifically for the dt466 no start. I am currently stalled at the IDM relay. A circuit test shows 12.5 volts @ pins 30 and 87. Jumper sealed beam light test fails to light the light. If I jump pin 30 to the body ground it lights the light. Other mechanics I've spoken with suggest I have a broken wire. Pin 87 is the IDM ECM ground when the key is turned on. I had to step away and clear my head but I'm going to jump that wire next as a bypass and see what happens.

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