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Old 10-26-2016, 09:11 AM
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Default Here I Go Again..... Damn Brakes

Well, on the way from Des Moines, Ia headed south, my brake pedal started getting lower and lower. By the time I got into the Kansas City area the brake pedal was about 1" or so off the floor and wouldn't pump up plus the braking ability seemed to be getting less and less. We went to Independence, Mo and I found a new master cylinder for $51. I put it on and the brakes are better, but still not what they should be. The pedal is higher and it will come up a bit when you pump them, BUT you can still push the pedal almost to the floor. Classic symptoms of air, but after running literally GALLONS of fluid through the brakes I have run out of ideas. Anyone have something new I can try????
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Old 10-27-2016, 07:20 AM
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After some driving around and using the brakes, the pedal is getting better. It is higher initially, and it pumps up and holds better. These really have me stumped..........
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Old 10-27-2016, 11:01 AM
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There is a rubber bladder mounted to your truck brakes only. This makes them feel spongy and you need to replace the spring to make them stiff again...





























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Old 10-27-2016, 02:05 PM
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Do the dodges have any type of anti lock brakes?
The older ford's had rear anti lock brakes, and the actuator causes pedal/bleeding problems.

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Old 10-27-2016, 04:40 PM
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Yeah, the older Dodge trucks have what is called RWAL (rear wheel anti-lock). It is a real simple (down right stupid?) system that has two solenoids. When the ABS detects rear wheel lock up it closes the port for fluid to flow to the rear brakes and opens the accumulator solenoid thereby shutting off the rear brakes and dumping the pressure to release the rear brakes leaving front brakes only. Like I said, it is a down right stupid set up.
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Old 10-27-2016, 04:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stodg73 View Post
There is a rubber bladder mounted to your truck brakes only. This makes them feel spongy and you need to replace the spring to make them stiff again...
I wish it were that simple........... I would put a solid block in to replace the spring!
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1996 RAM "Custom Ground" 100 plate 3/4 forward, 300 injectors, 16.5 timing, Goerends Auto = 365HP, 833TQ Third Gen Rims, Aluminum Headache Rack
Duct Tape can't fix stupid, BUT it can muffle the sound
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Old 10-27-2016, 06:50 PM
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Sounds a lot like the ford setup then. They called it RABS.
I know you can take the spring out of it to essentially bypass it.

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Old 10-29-2016, 07:08 AM
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The rear brakes on mine have been good. The problem started when the front reservoir went dry. If I were to block off the front port on the master cylinder the pedal was high and hard. If I block the rear port the pedal was low and spongy. I have tried just about everything I can think of with the exception of a power bleeder. It doesn't make sense to me.......
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1996 RAM "Custom Ground" 100 plate 3/4 forward, 300 injectors, 16.5 timing, Goerends Auto = 365HP, 833TQ Third Gen Rims, Aluminum Headache Rack
Duct Tape can't fix stupid, BUT it can muffle the sound
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Old 10-31-2016, 09:41 AM
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It sounds like there is air getting into the system. Have you checked all the break components for leaks? could be lots of things, bad or open bleeder valves, crack in line, wrong fluid, improperly bled lines. The rear brakes are going to take alot of fluid to bleed them out. You will have to keep an eye on the reservoir and keep topping it off.
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Old 10-31-2016, 11:22 AM
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The system doesn't loose any fluid. I have bled the brakes way more than I should have had to. Also the pedal doesn't continue to drop, just stays steady so between that and the fact that there are no wet spots tells me there isn't a leak. Like I said, I am stumped. This will give you some history:http://dieseltrucksite.com/showthrea...ghlight=brakes Then there is this: http://dieseltrucksite.com/showthread.php?t=459 After that was this thread: http://dieseltrucksite.com/showthrea...ghlight=brakes
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1996 RAM "Custom Ground" 100 plate 3/4 forward, 300 injectors, 16.5 timing, Goerends Auto = 365HP, 833TQ Third Gen Rims, Aluminum Headache Rack
Duct Tape can't fix stupid, BUT it can muffle the sound
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