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Old 12-10-2016, 09:52 AM
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Default 2000 cummins fuel bleed back

Now begins the search for my bleed back issues!

Earlier this fall, I noticed that cold starts were getting pretty 'rough'. First few revolutions were definitely less than 6 cylinders, with pretty good cloud of white smoke.
Consecutive restarts were perfect.

Now enter old man winter, and starts are almost impossible.. 30-40 second cranking with maybe 2-3 cylinders trying to fire, but not enough to sustain idle without help from starter.

My first fears; my new rebuilt IP went south again, grid heater problems, IAT problems.. I didn't think I had major injector problems, because after it starts, it runs excellent.
I emailed Schied diesel (supplier of my new pump) with my symptoms, and they suggested I just bump the engine to engage the fuel pump... and cycle the key again to get the grid heaters cookin'.
This time, using that sequence, PERFECT. First piston 'up'.. and she was lit. no clouds of smoke, smooth as silk. This was on a stone cold, *about 5F, and not plugged in.

So, now begins the investigation.. all lines and connections, cross over tubes, fitting on rear of head, and breather in fuel tank to make sure I am not battling a huge vacuum in-tank. Any other problem areas to check for air leaks?
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Just gonna list the Mopar stuff:
2000 ram 3500 4X4 reg cab, 6 speed, fass 02 drrp
1998 ram 2500 4X4 reg cab, 12v will have 6 speed to replace the 5, Not sure where it's headed in the mod dept. Stay tuned!
2006 Jeep Liberty CRD, No more EGR, greendiesel eco tune, weeks' intake elbow, hemi torque converter
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Old 12-10-2016, 07:54 PM
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The first thing that comes to mind is a leak at the fuel filter. There are so many places that could leak it's not even funny, but you already know that. When was the last time you changed the filter?
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1996 RAM "Custom Ground" 100 plate 3/4 forward, 300 injectors, 16.5 timing, Goerends Auto = 365HP, 833TQ Third Gen Rims, Aluminum Headache Rack
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Old 12-12-2016, 09:29 AM
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LOL, usually once a year on the filter... typically it gets changed after first gel up. So it hasn't seen it's 2016 'annual'. I must've beaten winter this year with enough #1 in the tank, early enough.

Anyway, the ol girl has 250k on the clock, and really the only thing I've done is set the valves a couple times. (2 vp 44's though)

So, I'm thinking it's time to pull the injectors, and get em out for testing/rebuilding/replacing.. and do the O-rings on the cross over tubes.. I'll be looking for tell-tale leaks all around in the meantime..
What kind of bear-cat is that fitting on the rear of head to change out? Is it almost impossible, or only a pain in the arse?
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Just gonna list the Mopar stuff:
2000 ram 3500 4X4 reg cab, 6 speed, fass 02 drrp
1998 ram 2500 4X4 reg cab, 12v will have 6 speed to replace the 5, Not sure where it's headed in the mod dept. Stay tuned!
2006 Jeep Liberty CRD, No more EGR, greendiesel eco tune, weeks' intake elbow, hemi torque converter
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Old 12-12-2016, 09:31 AM
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Have you tried parking you truck noise up and nose down to see if it helps or hurts?
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O.O., 01.5, Dodge, 2500, High Output (H.O.) Cummins Turbo Diesel (245/505), Quad Cab Long Bed (QCLB), 4x4, Sport, Original Bosch VP 44 Injection Pump, 6 Speed/NV5600 Transmission, 3.55 Gears, 105k, currently stock engine, Fram Air Filter, 285/75R16s, Glow Shift Gauges: Fuel Pressure (FP), Boost, Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT), Oil Temperature, SMARTY@1, Airtex lift pump 19 psi @ idle, 14 psi @ WOT, Propane Injection, 2 Stroke Oil, Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Fooler = Better MPG, Bed Lined, Chrome Nerf Bars, more to come!!

Toys:
'79 CJ5, 258ci, 3" lift, 33x12.50x15, Stock Engine and 3 Speed Tranny
'05 Suzuki, GSX1300R, Hayabusa, All Stock, #3('00 blown engine, '00 stolen, & '05)
The complete live & learn and pass it on by H. Jackson Brown, Jr.
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Old 12-12-2016, 03:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stodg73 View Post
Have you tried parking you truck noise up and nose down to see if it helps or hurts?
No, I forgot about that 'trick'..
Which way typically helps? Nose down? Seems like keeping fuel tank clear full helps a little, but not entirely.
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Just gonna list the Mopar stuff:
2000 ram 3500 4X4 reg cab, 6 speed, fass 02 drrp
1998 ram 2500 4X4 reg cab, 12v will have 6 speed to replace the 5, Not sure where it's headed in the mod dept. Stay tuned!
2006 Jeep Liberty CRD, No more EGR, greendiesel eco tune, weeks' intake elbow, hemi torque converter
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Old 12-12-2016, 08:29 PM
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stodg73 stodg73 is offline
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Nose down, generally. This will also, maybe, show you where the hole is, by the wet area near the hole.
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O.O., 01.5, Dodge, 2500, High Output (H.O.) Cummins Turbo Diesel (245/505), Quad Cab Long Bed (QCLB), 4x4, Sport, Original Bosch VP 44 Injection Pump, 6 Speed/NV5600 Transmission, 3.55 Gears, 105k, currently stock engine, Fram Air Filter, 285/75R16s, Glow Shift Gauges: Fuel Pressure (FP), Boost, Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT), Oil Temperature, SMARTY@1, Airtex lift pump 19 psi @ idle, 14 psi @ WOT, Propane Injection, 2 Stroke Oil, Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Fooler = Better MPG, Bed Lined, Chrome Nerf Bars, more to come!!

Toys:
'79 CJ5, 258ci, 3" lift, 33x12.50x15, Stock Engine and 3 Speed Tranny
'05 Suzuki, GSX1300R, Hayabusa, All Stock, #3('00 blown engine, '00 stolen, & '05)
The complete live & learn and pass it on by H. Jackson Brown, Jr.
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  #7  
Old 12-16-2016, 10:52 PM
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Ok, gotcha. The wetness that would show up along the lines, fittings, etc is pretty self explanatory. But if there is a bad cross over tube o-ring, is there any outward signs? I guess a sticking injector could allow air back through too..


It's been a TOUGH week for the DODGE BOYS in my fam..
Monday, wife rolled a raccoon with her Neon.. wiped out the front bumper cover, radiator, condenser, and electric fans.. Thankfully, the oil pan looks good. Frickin varmints. Got the radiator support yanked back out, and awaiting parts to show up.
Tuesday, son called me @ 10pm saying his Dodge Stealth busted the timing belt.. with only 24k miles on last replacement.. please bring the trailer.. Not what I had planned for the week or 2 leading up to Christmas.. Replacement engine is now sitting in the shop. (major interference engine) Thankfully, it's not the turbo variety!
So, when those 2 cars are squared away, I'll be getting serious with the Cummins.. Think I'll just start with a set of injectors, and seals for the tubes, with 250k miles, it's probably time anyway.
__________________
Just gonna list the Mopar stuff:
2000 ram 3500 4X4 reg cab, 6 speed, fass 02 drrp
1998 ram 2500 4X4 reg cab, 12v will have 6 speed to replace the 5, Not sure where it's headed in the mod dept. Stay tuned!
2006 Jeep Liberty CRD, No more EGR, greendiesel eco tune, weeks' intake elbow, hemi torque converter
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  #8  
Old 12-17-2016, 09:06 AM
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Man, that is tough. I know of a guy who had a timing belt break. We were lucky and just had to replace a few valves that were bent. Sometimes it is easier to replace the whole engine and just as quick too. Hard to believe that a 'coon can do that much damage! It doesn't help that the car sits so low either........ Sounds like an expensive December!
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1996 RAM "Custom Ground" 100 plate 3/4 forward, 300 injectors, 16.5 timing, Goerends Auto = 365HP, 833TQ Third Gen Rims, Aluminum Headache Rack
Duct Tape can't fix stupid, BUT it can muffle the sound
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  #9  
Old 12-17-2016, 01:09 PM
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rancherman rancherman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MnTom View Post
Man, that is tough. I know of a guy who had a timing belt break. We were lucky and just had to replace a few valves that were bent. Sometimes it is easier to replace the whole engine and just as quick too. Hard to believe that a 'coon can do that much damage! It doesn't help that the car sits so low either........ Sounds like an expensive December!
Well, expensive isn't the bad part, Tom. It's the time to get it all 'fixed'! LOL

Neon parts are pretty cheap; bumper cover/grille was $75, radiator was 110, condenser 55, fan unit 110.. Not going to paint the bumper cover! Just keep it flat black... actually looks 'sporty' on a silver body. LOL 'redneck bra' so-to-speak..

Son just got back from retrieving an engine over by Des Moines, paid 1100 for a 112k complete take out. I doubt we could even replace 1 head on the busted engine for that..

Sound like the stealth engine comes out easier when it's still attached to the trans... Just not enough room to separate the clutch when it's still in the 'bay. Will do a belt replacement, water pump, new clutch, whilst out!

Used the 3500 last week to retrieve the coon ravaged Neon, the busted Stealth, and a parts run to Des Moines.. Busy week!
__________________
Just gonna list the Mopar stuff:
2000 ram 3500 4X4 reg cab, 6 speed, fass 02 drrp
1998 ram 2500 4X4 reg cab, 12v will have 6 speed to replace the 5, Not sure where it's headed in the mod dept. Stay tuned!
2006 Jeep Liberty CRD, No more EGR, greendiesel eco tune, weeks' intake elbow, hemi torque converter
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  #10  
Old 12-17-2016, 08:19 PM
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From what I have seen and understand there are quite a few front wheel drive cars (that is what we are discussing, right?) that the engine and drive train are only held in by a few bolts. You can drop them out the bottom and have complete access to everything (kinda like pulling the cab on Fords).
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1996 RAM "Custom Ground" 100 plate 3/4 forward, 300 injectors, 16.5 timing, Goerends Auto = 365HP, 833TQ Third Gen Rims, Aluminum Headache Rack
Duct Tape can't fix stupid, BUT it can muffle the sound
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