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Old 12-16-2016, 11:23 AM
kerley kerley is offline
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Default Fuel Level Sending Unit and Lift Pump

Recently MnTom and I discussed my Fuel Level Sending Unit which stopped working leaving the Fuel Gauge reading full all the time. I ran out of fuel yesterday and called Kathy who brought me five gallons of fuel. She has never failed me in any way, obviously a keeper. Anyway, I bumped the starter and could hear the LP prime but my FP Gauge that usually jumps to twenty-four pounds Fuel Pressure only read two pounds. With the added fuel, it should have primed, which made me think of the past conversations about Draw Straws. Then I opened the drain on the OME fuel filter but only drained clean fuel, no water. Next step was to crack #1 and #3 injector lines to prime but I did not have my 3/4" Flare Nut Wrench onboard which left me screwed, my fault. I called AAA Tow Service and was towed three miles to my home. My next move will be to crack the fuel line between the LP and the Fuel Filter Cannister and bump the Starter. if there is no fuel [would I damage anything by removing the fuel tank cap and blowing compressed air from the LP back to the fuel tank to verify open fuel lines?] If the fuel lines are open then I will order a new Lift Pump. I will for sure drop the tank to repair the fuel sending unit. I know I print long stories but you need all information to give me sound and accurate advice, Thank you, Tom Kerley
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Old 12-16-2016, 09:02 PM
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MnTom MnTom is offline
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Well, I guess it is up to you, Tom, but if the lift pump failed I would really look into an aftermarket system. You won't hurt anything by using a rag and blow gun into the filler, but be cognizant of the tank bulging. Put air to it and give the tank a chance to relax. It may take a few times to get the lines purged. What happens if you bumped the starter a few times before you try bleeding the injector lines?
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Old 12-16-2016, 10:33 PM
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rancherman rancherman is offline
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If you have the fuel cap off, should be able to blast away.

I'm wondering if the 2 things aren't tied together... module reading 'full' and the inability to prime. Cracked or busted module? I'm also wondering if you actually DID run out of fuel.. or just the ability to pump it out??
I shouldn't talk, I'm still running around with mine on 'E'.. and I just reset my trip OD every fill, and when it's 250 miles, I fill it again.
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1998 ram 2500 4X4 reg cab, 12v will have 6 speed to replace the 5, Not sure where it's headed in the mod dept. Stay tuned!
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Old 12-17-2016, 09:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rancherman View Post
I shouldn't talk, I'm still running around with mine on 'E'.. and I just reset my trip OD every fill, and when it's 250 miles, I fill it again.
I did the same thing for quite a while only going 300 miles. I finally lifted the bed and pulled the module and was able to fix my sending unit.
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1996 RAM "Custom Ground" 100 plate 3/4 forward, 300 injectors, 16.5 timing, Goerends Auto = 365HP, 833TQ Third Gen Rims, Aluminum Headache Rack
Duct Tape can't fix stupid, BUT it can muffle the sound
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Old 12-17-2016, 11:21 AM
kerley kerley is offline
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Rancherman, MnTom, The fuel gauge stopped working six months ago, and I continued to read twenty-two PSI on my Autometer FPG. A friend of mine is coming over to lift the bed so we can access the in-tank fuel module and hopefully solve my ongoing problem but that will be after Christmas. What I have done is add five gallons of diesel and disconnected the fuel line between the Fass DDRP-2 and the OEM fuel filter. I had my wife bump the starter and got fuel and air spitting out of the fuel line, so I put it all back together. Now I'm thinking about the five-gallon draw straw issues many folks have had with these trucks, adding an additional five gallons should eliminate that issue. What's left would be fuel pressure, and I won't know that until I crack the injectors. If it turns out that the LP is worn out I will consider a larger Fass LP, I have read that the Fass works best mounted on the frame close to the fuel tank where it pumps a shorter distance, what's your knowledge about the pump location?
Thank you for your thoughts and continued help.
Tom Kerley
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Old 12-17-2016, 12:41 PM
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rancherman rancherman is offline
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How old is your ddrp 02?? That is what I'm running. I think mine is about 2 years old now... probably better to ask how many gallons they've pumped, rather age!
I'm thinking about going with the Walbro twin pump setup next go-round.. a little less total cash, and the 'safety' of 2 pumps.
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Just gonna list the Mopar stuff:
2000 ram 3500 4X4 reg cab, 6 speed, fass 02 drrp
1998 ram 2500 4X4 reg cab, 12v will have 6 speed to replace the 5, Not sure where it's headed in the mod dept. Stay tuned!
2006 Jeep Liberty CRD, No more EGR, greendiesel eco tune, weeks' intake elbow, hemi torque converter
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Old 12-17-2016, 12:45 PM
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rancherman rancherman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MnTom View Post
I did the same thing for quite a while only going 300 miles. I finally lifted the bed and pulled the module and was able to fix my sending unit.
Old habits die hard Tom! Back when I had my first vp44 replacement, I was AVERAGING 11-12 mpg..
Now that I've got a 'good' pump, it's up where is should be, 18-20.. So I suppose I should be able to safely stretch it to 300 miles!
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Just gonna list the Mopar stuff:
2000 ram 3500 4X4 reg cab, 6 speed, fass 02 drrp
1998 ram 2500 4X4 reg cab, 12v will have 6 speed to replace the 5, Not sure where it's headed in the mod dept. Stay tuned!
2006 Jeep Liberty CRD, No more EGR, greendiesel eco tune, weeks' intake elbow, hemi torque converter
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Old 12-17-2016, 01:27 PM
kerley kerley is offline
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Rancherman, Thank you,
I added five gallons diesel this morning and bumped the starter, AutoMeter FG moved up to twenty-two PSI then dropped to twelve PSI but I have not bleed the fuel lines yet, have to find my wrench. What I do know is that I need a new draw straw that will pick up the last five gallons of fuel, and fuel level sending unit which I will order from Rock Auto, they are good folks. I guess I should replace the brass fuel line gaskets that I removed for testing, just to be safe. I've done enough for today, It's cold outside and the weather liar say's tomorrow will be sunny and 70*.
When I get on this site I sound like I don't know much but I'm smart enough to get other peoples thought's when I am trouble shooting. My FASS DDRP was purchased from Geno's Garage and I installed it five years ago, It came with a four-year warranty and has served me well but I have only driven my Ram 9k in 10 years. It is possible that after I bleed the fuel lines I will find that the DDRP is worn out. I will post after I fire it up. Where are you located?
Best wishes
Tom Kerley
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Old 12-17-2016, 08:15 PM
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Kerley, I know you have some "pretty good smarts"!! I have the same problem. Many more people are more 'articulate' on the keyboard than I am. Why does the fuel pressure drop back to 12 PSI? Is that where the overflow valve is set at? From your description it doesn't sound like your LP is bad. I was thinking you had one of the stock LPs, that's why I suggested an aftermarket, btu you are way ahead of me there!
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1996 RAM "Custom Ground" 100 plate 3/4 forward, 300 injectors, 16.5 timing, Goerends Auto = 365HP, 833TQ Third Gen Rims, Aluminum Headache Rack
Duct Tape can't fix stupid, BUT it can muffle the sound
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Old 12-17-2016, 10:09 PM
kerley kerley is offline
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MnTom, Rancherman,
I'm not sure why the FP dropped from 22 to 12, my thoughts are that there is air in the lines due to running out of fuel. Once I bleed the lines, the FP should remain at 22 PSI while Idling as it should. If not I will take another look at the LP. One more issue to inquire about.
While winching my truck onto the wrecker deck there was diesel leaking onto my front differential, It appeared to be coming directly from the front cross member. My thoughts are that the overflow line or the connector from the vp44 may be loose or broken, causing the leak, which would also account for the poor fuel mileage. There must be some kind of fitting on vp44 to connect to the overflow line that returns the excess fuel to the tank. I am thinking, because of movement of the engine there must be a flexible joint, possibly a rubber hose connection that is cracked or just loose causing the observed leak. Does anyone know about this?
Best wishes and thank you
Tom Kerley
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