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Old 12-28-2016, 11:08 AM
kerley kerley is offline
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Default correct wrench needed to bleed air from injectors

I have tested the fuel lines through the fuel filter and have fuel flow, re-attached all lines and still will not start. I think the problem is air in the vp44 and injectors. My 3/4" wrench felt loose on the injector nut so I called Cummings, their mechanic told me the correct wrench size was 3/4" so went to the Snap-on tool web site and they say it's 19mm. I bought a 19mm Flare Nut Wrench and it feels loose and slips when applying pressure, the next size would be 17mm which is to small. I do not want to strip the nut. Is there a secret to loosening that damn nut? Is there a special wrench designed specifically for that nut? I am lost without my truck.
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Old 12-28-2016, 01:55 PM
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MnTom MnTom is offline
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The size that I have always have been told is either a 19mm or 3/4" since they are both the same size. The nuts are tight, but they should come loose. Just make sure you are pushing toward the small side of the wrench (but you knew that anyhow). Hopefully you can get something to happen........
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1996 RAM "Custom Ground" 100 plate 3/4 forward, 300 injectors, 16.5 timing, Goerends Auto = 365HP, 833TQ Third Gen Rims, Aluminum Headache Rack
Duct Tape can't fix stupid, BUT it can muffle the sound
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Old 12-29-2016, 11:01 AM
kerley kerley is offline
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I don't know why the #1 injector line was and still is so tight, I did learn that you can open any series of fuel injection line that will open to bleed off the air which I finally did and she fired right up. I was beginning to worry that the vp44 was damaged but could not understand how it could be since it always had fuel pressure between 18 and 22 pounds. I can tell you that my procrastination about the fuel level sending repair has ended.
Thank you MnTom
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Old 12-29-2016, 02:37 PM
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MnTom MnTom is offline
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You are most certainly welcome, sir! I'm glad you got it to run again! Funny how we manage to procrastinate until things really go bad....... I am guilty of it too, but at least once you lift the bed it is quite easy. Make sure you look your sending unit over real good. Chances are you will be able to fix yours in just a few minutes. I did that to mine about 10 years ago and it is still functioning.
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1996 RAM "Custom Ground" 100 plate 3/4 forward, 300 injectors, 16.5 timing, Goerends Auto = 365HP, 833TQ Third Gen Rims, Aluminum Headache Rack
Duct Tape can't fix stupid, BUT it can muffle the sound
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Old 12-31-2016, 11:19 AM
kerley kerley is offline
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Fuel level sending unit,
There is a harness of electrical wires that runs from the PDC and traverses between the inner and outer fender on the driver side, I am not sure where all the wires connect to but suspect that one powers the fuel tank level sender or the complete fuel cannister.
Last summer when my oldest son visited from Calif. he installed my new front mud flaps which required a longer self-tapping screw which I suspect may have drilled through the wire harness, so I will have to remove the outer wheel well cover to inspect or repair a broken wire, possibly solving the fuel level issue, if not I will remove the bed. While I am in there I will install a new 10ga. wire for the trailer brakes.
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Old 01-01-2017, 08:57 AM
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A longer screw could give you problems, that's for sure. When you pull things apart and find out what the problem was let us know please.
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1996 RAM "Custom Ground" 100 plate 3/4 forward, 300 injectors, 16.5 timing, Goerends Auto = 365HP, 833TQ Third Gen Rims, Aluminum Headache Rack
Duct Tape can't fix stupid, BUT it can muffle the sound
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