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  #11  
Old 05-18-2017, 07:17 PM
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MnTom MnTom is offline
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Well, I spent most all day trying to get a decent pedal for brakes. No such luck. Actually I said way more than that emoticon does........ I was just thinking about the brakes and there is ONE PART that I didn't ever change. I changed the master cylinder, all brake lines, wheel cylinders, calipers, shoes, pads, and the proportioning valve. The only thing I did not change is the RWAL valve. Thinking about it, it is possible that is where my air issue is. The valve has an accumulator in it and IF the solenoid isn't sealing it off completely....... Anyhow, I got the RWAL valve when I got the proportioning valve so I am going to swap the valves and see what happens.
Oh, yea, I forgot.....I'm glad to see my luck is staying steady. I had my truck running enough to get above 140* water temperature yesterday. I went to start it today and had almost dead batteries....... $220 later my truck starts like it should again.... This is getting expensive.
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1996 RAM "Custom Ground" 100 plate 3/4 forward, 300 injectors, 16.5 timing, Goerends Auto = 365HP, 833TQ Third Gen Rims, Aluminum Headache Rack
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  #12  
Old 05-19-2017, 02:29 PM
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GGGRRRRRRR!!!! I still can't seem to get a decent pedal!! The pedal is low and spongy. Classic air symptoms, but I get nothing but solid fluid at every single wheel. If I try to lock up the wheels the rears do lock for a second and the RWAL kicks in, but the fronts just don't feel good. The truck stops, but not like it is capable. I dunno....... I may have to find shop to see if they can do something.
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1996 RAM "Custom Ground" 100 plate 3/4 forward, 300 injectors, 16.5 timing, Goerends Auto = 365HP, 833TQ Third Gen Rims, Aluminum Headache Rack
Duct Tape can't fix stupid, BUT it can muffle the sound
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  #13  
Old 05-19-2017, 02:55 PM
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A good pressure bleeder will work wonders.

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  #14  
Old 05-19-2017, 08:52 PM
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That's my thoughts too, but I am not going to go buy one. If I still had my garage maybe...... It will be just as cheap now to take it to someone (I hope!)
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1996 RAM "Custom Ground" 100 plate 3/4 forward, 300 injectors, 16.5 timing, Goerends Auto = 365HP, 833TQ Third Gen Rims, Aluminum Headache Rack
Duct Tape can't fix stupid, BUT it can muffle the sound
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  #15  
Old 05-20-2017, 12:53 PM
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Just took my truck for a ride. Brakes are stopping decent, but the pedal is low and spongy, and the cruise still doesn't work. The air bag light is staying off, so that is a small victory. Now to figure out the cruise.
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1996 RAM "Custom Ground" 100 plate 3/4 forward, 300 injectors, 16.5 timing, Goerends Auto = 365HP, 833TQ Third Gen Rims, Aluminum Headache Rack
Duct Tape can't fix stupid, BUT it can muffle the sound
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  #16  
Old 05-23-2017, 07:34 AM
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I have an appointment to get the brakes bled this afternoon. Hopefully they will get them done quick and I will have a solid pedal.
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1996 RAM "Custom Ground" 100 plate 3/4 forward, 300 injectors, 16.5 timing, Goerends Auto = 365HP, 833TQ Third Gen Rims, Aluminum Headache Rack
Duct Tape can't fix stupid, BUT it can muffle the sound
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  #17  
Old 05-24-2017, 08:08 AM
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MnTom MnTom is offline
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Well, the shop gave up. They didn't get any air out and blamed the master cylinder. I went and bought a brand new MC, but no change. I think I figured out what the whole problem has been with my brakes. I am not going to say quite yet what my thoughts are and am going to try something before I do.
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1996 RAM "Custom Ground" 100 plate 3/4 forward, 300 injectors, 16.5 timing, Goerends Auto = 365HP, 833TQ Third Gen Rims, Aluminum Headache Rack
Duct Tape can't fix stupid, BUT it can muffle the sound
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  #18  
Old 05-24-2017, 11:29 AM
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MnTom MnTom is offline
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I took the MC back out and spent plenty of time bench bleeding it thinking there might (and there was) air in the front piston. I got all the air out and put it on again with no change in the pedal. So much for my idea..... Anyhow, I used one of the bleeder plugs and blocked off the front brakes so that just the rear was hooked up. The pedal only moved about 1 1/2 inches, meaning the air is in the front brake system. I was fooling around and opened the bleeder on the left side. It took probably 5 to 6 seconds before the fluid started gravity bleeding. The pedal is much better, but still not 100%. I am winning slightly!!
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1996 RAM "Custom Ground" 100 plate 3/4 forward, 300 injectors, 16.5 timing, Goerends Auto = 365HP, 833TQ Third Gen Rims, Aluminum Headache Rack
Duct Tape can't fix stupid, BUT it can muffle the sound
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  #19  
Old 05-24-2017, 06:36 PM
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Guess I am going to run it like it is for a while. I have better brakes than I have had for years, but the pedal is still mushy and goes about 1/2 way down. I will say one thing, the quality of brakes are 1000% better than before! You know when you step on the pedal!
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1996 RAM "Custom Ground" 100 plate 3/4 forward, 300 injectors, 16.5 timing, Goerends Auto = 365HP, 833TQ Third Gen Rims, Aluminum Headache Rack
Duct Tape can't fix stupid, BUT it can muffle the sound
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  #20  
Old 05-26-2017, 07:37 AM
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MnTom MnTom is offline
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Boy, it never seems to end!! Now I need to repair a broken helper leaf! The wife and I are buying a larger trailer so I figure I should replace the leaf just because of the extra weight, but this new trailer is 10 feet longer but only a little heavier. It is 38 1/2 feet long and only has a gross weight of 12,400 pounds! My 28 footer that we have now has a gross weight of 10,560 pounds. I even bought a Trailer Saver TS3 hitch before we decided on a trailer. I am curious how the air ride hitch will ride.
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1996 RAM "Custom Ground" 100 plate 3/4 forward, 300 injectors, 16.5 timing, Goerends Auto = 365HP, 833TQ Third Gen Rims, Aluminum Headache Rack
Duct Tape can't fix stupid, BUT it can muffle the sound
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