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Old 11-12-2016, 09:57 PM
kerley kerley is offline
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Default Back-up lights?

I parked my truck and unloaded some lumber. After it got dark outside my wife happened to look outside and then told me that my backup lights were on. They were on so I shifted from reverse to neutral, they went off. My keys were not in the ignition and my headlight switch was off.

I have been thinking about it all day and I need some help.

Does the reverse switch on my transmission stay hot even if all power is off? I think the switch is working as it should because when I shifted into neutral the backup lights went out. The 12 volts are coming from somewhere. Any thoughts.
Thank you, Kerley
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Old 11-13-2016, 01:27 PM
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MnTom MnTom is offline
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Kerley, forgive me, but I don't remember what you have for a truck. Anyhow, check your 7 way trailer plug. You may have some corrosion in it that is allowing some power to bleed back into the truck. You may also need to dismantle the plug to see it the problem is on the back side of the plug too.
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1996 RAM "Custom Ground" 100 plate 3/4 forward, 300 injectors, 16.5 timing, Goerends Auto = 365HP, 833TQ Third Gen Rims, Aluminum Headache Rack
Duct Tape can't fix stupid, BUT it can muffle the sound
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Old 11-13-2016, 01:57 PM
kerley kerley is offline
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Thank you MnTom
I have a 1998 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins 4x4 5 speed regular cab.
I try to repair one thing at a time, door window tracks with new switches and motors completed and work as they should.
I had to set the truck maintenance and repairs aside to complete the "Honey Do's" you know what I'm talking about.
I was thinking about the reverse light problem combined with the trailer Brake and lighting problem I have and I think you hit the nail right on.What was confusing to me was that when I shifted the gear from reverse the light went off as it should, but why is the reverse switch hot when the key is off. I had already decided to have it all rewired professionally, just have to do a little more research before making a decision. Thank you for the helpful thought.
Kerley
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Old 11-13-2016, 09:08 PM
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MnTom MnTom is offline
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It really isn't that difficult to rewire the trailer connector. It is a somewhat slow process that can be a royal PITA. I would recommend going to an RV place and purchase enough trailer cord to run where you need it to and also a new plug. That way you will have the correct number and sizes plus the colors will correspond with the plug. Then I would use some heat shrink connectors to seal everything up.
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1996 RAM "Custom Ground" 100 plate 3/4 forward, 300 injectors, 16.5 timing, Goerends Auto = 365HP, 833TQ Third Gen Rims, Aluminum Headache Rack
Duct Tape can't fix stupid, BUT it can muffle the sound
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Old 11-14-2016, 10:45 AM
kerley kerley is offline
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Thank you MnMan,
I researched online and there is a prewired kit that includes a new 10 ga. wire for the electric brake which bypasses the OME brake wire which is to lite {14 or 18ga] looks easy enough to do but with my Arthritis, I may need to pay for the installation.
What puzzles me is that when I shifted from reverse to neutral the reverse lights went off, leading me to think that the 12v was coming directly from the cab wiring. Possibly from the after market trailer brake control wiring harness that comes from the headlight switch, which the PO cut the plug off and hard wired OME harness to the brake control box. I'm thinking the four wires are connected wrong. You and I are on the same track and I will have to test wires.
Thank you for your help,
Kerley
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Old 11-14-2016, 01:01 PM
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On the 7-way plug there is one terminal for +12 volts to the trailer to keep a battery powered up and it is possible that it was back feeding the truck's electrical system. Either way, you will need to have things looked at to see where the problem lies. Make sure you tell us what the fix is!
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1996 RAM "Custom Ground" 100 plate 3/4 forward, 300 injectors, 16.5 timing, Goerends Auto = 365HP, 833TQ Third Gen Rims, Aluminum Headache Rack
Duct Tape can't fix stupid, BUT it can muffle the sound
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