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  #1  
Old 12-25-2010, 02:10 PM
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stodg73 stodg73 is offline
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Default Brake Drum Removal Information

Brake Drum Removal Information

Do one side at a time, or take detailed pictures, in order to have a reference, if you get stumped or lost.

Block/chock the front tires on both sides and front/back. Lift the truck rear end off the ground, and support with jackstands and remove the rear wheels. Then there is a slot on the back side of the brake housing, sometimes covered with an oval shaped rubber plug. This is where you need to stick the pick/J Hook into to pull the tension spring/back off preventer/brake adjuster, off the star wheel, then use a screwdriver or brake tool, that has 2 flat blades on it, to back the star wheel off. Turn it a little one way and see if the brake is getting tighter or looser, by rotating the drum. The truck might have to be in neutral in order to turn the drum. This can sometimes be a P.I.T.A., yet it can be done. The brake drum should come off easy this way.

Brake Drum Datsun 1.JPG Brake Drum Ford 1.JPG Brake Drum Ford 3.JPG Brake Drum Jeep 3.JPG
These are different styles of differentials, and different locations for the plug.

SAFETY FIRST!! If the drum is stubborn and not coming off after loosening the star wheel, spray penetrating lubricant on the studs, place 2 lug nuts on loosely, this is to keep the drums from running away when broken free. Please be CAUTIOUS with this. Make sure that the front tires are blocked/chocked on both sides to prevent movement. Start the truck, put it in drive/2nd gear, and allow the drums to get to about 5-10 MPH and step on the brakes to see if this breaks the drums free of the rust that has built up. Do this on a flat, level hard surface.

DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK.

Tools needed:
2 to 4 Jack stands
Jack
Lug Wrench
4 Wheel Chocks/Blocks
Brake Tool/Star Wheel Tool: looks like a double flat blade with a bend in it
Pick/J Hook: Using a strong wire(wire coat hanger will work) about 10” long, bend one end into
hook and other end into a 2” handle
Other tools as necessary
Drum Brake Tools 4.jpg
Brake Spring Pliers, Shoe Hold On tool, Homemade Brake Tool, J-Hook

If this still doesn’t work, you may have the inboard brakes. With these, you need to remove the 8 bolts holding the axle on. When doing this, you should also change out the seals on the axle and top off the differential oil.

Installation is reverse of removal.

If you decide to upgrade to heavier wheel cylinders, the NAPA part number is UP37337. If you change the wheel cylinders make sure to bleed the system before driving.

You need to remember which way you turned the star wheel, when removing the drum. You need to turn the star wheel in the opposite direction in order to tighten the brakes before use. Turn the star wheel until you hear a slight rubbing when turning the drum.

More Information/Pictures to be added
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O.O., 01.5, Dodge, 2500, High Output (H.O.) Cummins Turbo Diesel (245/505), Quad Cab Long Bed (QCLB), 4x4, Sport, Original Bosch VP 44 Injection Pump, 6 Speed/NV5600 Transmission, 3.55 Gears, 105k, currently stock engine, Fram Air Filter, 285/75R16s, Glow Shift Gauges: Fuel Pressure (FP), Boost, Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT), Oil Temperature, SMARTY@1, Airtex lift pump 19 psi @ idle, 14 psi @ WOT, Propane Injection, 2 Stroke Oil, Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Fooler = Better MPG, Bed Lined, Chrome Nerf Bars, more to come!!

Toys:
'79 CJ5, 258ci, 3" lift, 33x12.50x15, Stock Engine and 3 Speed Tranny
'05 Suzuki, GSX1300R, Hayabusa, All Stock, #3('00 blown engine, '00 stolen, & '05)
The complete live & learn and pass it on by H. Jackson Brown, Jr.

Last edited by stodg73; 09-20-2012 at 04:41 PM.
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  #2  
Old 12-25-2010, 03:45 PM
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One thing to remember if you want to back off the brakes with a spoon, there is a self adjuster that will probably hold the starwheel from turning they way you need to turn it. The solution is to stick a small rod or screwdriver (or something similar) just above the adjuster to move the self adjuster out of the way. You will feel the spring trying to push back when you get to the right spot with what you are using. Then you will be able to back the brakes off. For more info on the wheel cylinder upgrade look here:http://www.dieseltrucksite.com/showthread.php?t=92
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Old 12-25-2010, 04:09 PM
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One other thing to do while your in there. I noticed on the last one I did the starwheel would barely turn. Take a wire wheel to the threads to get all that surface rust/dust powder/crap, off of the threads, make sure and move the starwheel out of the way to get the threads under it too. Then put high temp grease on all of the threads. Don't slather it on like you do the peanut butter on your sandwich, just make sure the threads all have grease on the surface. A good way is to turn the starwheel to the start of the threads and put grease in front of it, then run it all the way to the end and back. Makes it have the perfect amount of grease on all the threads and ensures the starwheel will go smoothly on all the threads.
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1997-12V-NV4500-Dana 80/3.54/2wd-350k---21-27mpg
Removed AFC--No Plate--13.5* timing--BHAF--5" Exhaust--Valair Clutch
1994-Jeep Cherokee-5spd-3.07-4wd-202k---16-19mpg
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Old 12-25-2010, 04:16 PM
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:cool:
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O.O., 01.5, Dodge, 2500, High Output (H.O.) Cummins Turbo Diesel (245/505), Quad Cab Long Bed (QCLB), 4x4, Sport, Original Bosch VP 44 Injection Pump, 6 Speed/NV5600 Transmission, 3.55 Gears, 105k, currently stock engine, Fram Air Filter, 285/75R16s, Glow Shift Gauges: Fuel Pressure (FP), Boost, Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT), Oil Temperature, SMARTY@1, Airtex lift pump 19 psi @ idle, 14 psi @ WOT, Propane Injection, 2 Stroke Oil, Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Fooler = Better MPG, Bed Lined, Chrome Nerf Bars, more to come!!

Toys:
'79 CJ5, 258ci, 3" lift, 33x12.50x15, Stock Engine and 3 Speed Tranny
'05 Suzuki, GSX1300R, Hayabusa, All Stock, #3('00 blown engine, '00 stolen, & '05)
The complete live & learn and pass it on by H. Jackson Brown, Jr.
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  #5  
Old 12-26-2010, 05:55 PM
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I pulled the starwheels off both drums, cleaned and greased one and left the other as it was when I took it off. Over time the starwheel can start to rust and wont turn. Mine actually turned fine from the film that was still on it from long ago.

It is also important to not mix them up, as if you look closely, one is left hand and one is right hand thread.

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1997-12V-NV4500-Dana 80/3.54/2wd-350k---21-27mpg
Removed AFC--No Plate--13.5* timing--BHAF--5" Exhaust--Valair Clutch
1994-Jeep Cherokee-5spd-3.07-4wd-202k---16-19mpg
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  #6  
Old 12-26-2010, 06:29 PM
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stodg73 stodg73 is offline
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Correct, which one goes where.

Thanks again for the info about cleaning them.


Thanks for the pictures also!
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O.O., 01.5, Dodge, 2500, High Output (H.O.) Cummins Turbo Diesel (245/505), Quad Cab Long Bed (QCLB), 4x4, Sport, Original Bosch VP 44 Injection Pump, 6 Speed/NV5600 Transmission, 3.55 Gears, 105k, currently stock engine, Fram Air Filter, 285/75R16s, Glow Shift Gauges: Fuel Pressure (FP), Boost, Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT), Oil Temperature, SMARTY@1, Airtex lift pump 19 psi @ idle, 14 psi @ WOT, Propane Injection, 2 Stroke Oil, Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Fooler = Better MPG, Bed Lined, Chrome Nerf Bars, more to come!!

Toys:
'79 CJ5, 258ci, 3" lift, 33x12.50x15, Stock Engine and 3 Speed Tranny
'05 Suzuki, GSX1300R, Hayabusa, All Stock, #3('00 blown engine, '00 stolen, & '05)
The complete live & learn and pass it on by H. Jackson Brown, Jr.
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  #7  
Old 12-26-2010, 08:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stodg73 View Post
Correct, which one goes where.
IF, and that is a big IF I remember correctly the left hand threads go on the left side. I use some Never Seize on mine for lube.
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1996 RAM "Custom Ground" 100 plate 3/4 forward, 300 injectors, 16.5 timing, Goerends Auto = 365HP, 833TQ Third Gen Rims, Aluminum Headache Rack
Duct Tape can't fix stupid, BUT it can muffle the sound
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Old 12-26-2010, 09:57 PM
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Nooope. Left hand thread goes on the passenger side. The shiny one is passenger.
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1997-12V-NV4500-Dana 80/3.54/2wd-350k---21-27mpg
Removed AFC--No Plate--13.5* timing--BHAF--5" Exhaust--Valair Clutch
1994-Jeep Cherokee-5spd-3.07-4wd-202k---16-19mpg
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Old 12-26-2010, 10:22 PM
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Well then, I guess my memory ain't what it used to be..........
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1996 RAM "Custom Ground" 100 plate 3/4 forward, 300 injectors, 16.5 timing, Goerends Auto = 365HP, 833TQ Third Gen Rims, Aluminum Headache Rack
Duct Tape can't fix stupid, BUT it can muffle the sound
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