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  #1  
Old 02-14-2015, 06:57 PM
kerley kerley is offline
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Default Boost and EGT Pyrometer install

I finally installed my new Autometer guages. I already had the Autometer fp. I drilled and tapped the Exhaust Manifold and was surprised that it was so thin walled. The Pyrometer guage is installed except the ground to the motor is temporary until I figure out the best place to attach it without melting the wire off. I tested it and it slowly registered 240* so I know it works, tomorrow I will complete the ground wire. All wires are protected with wire loom. Where did you folks ground yours?
The boost is installed aswell. I attached the boost fittings to the top of the engine where the directions suggested, I bought the black transmission air line but desided to use the clear that came with the guage, why I"m not sure. When started the Boost guage did not register until I tacked 2600 rpm then only went up to five pounds and I'm not sure that is proper but I was parked in my yard and the engine was still cold. I still need to check for boost leaks. What I did discover is seventeen year old plastic dash parts are brittle and break easily, now I have to replace the dash plus I cracked the Bezel while changing my head light switch which is not changed yet. I don't love my Dodge, just the Cummins part and wish the Cummins engine was in my old 1985 Ford F250 4x4.
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Old 02-14-2015, 07:58 PM
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rancherman rancherman is offline
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Kerley,
The autometer I have is on a tractor, I think there is 4 wires coming out of gauge.. I believe I just found a common ground in the dash to attach that wire to.. No doubt somewhere you'd find a terminal under your dash to run that wire to.
edit... 'good engine ground' is what autometer wants! Shoot, I wonder if I need to put mine in a better spot!

Dang it, isn't there a common ground lug at the rear of the head you could snag onto?

Not sure, but being a cold engine with no load, 5 psi boost may be all you can get! Let us know what it does when she's warmed up and ready to rumble!
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2000 ram 3500 4X4 reg cab, 6 speed, fass 02 drrp
1998 ram 2500 4X4 reg cab, 12v will have 6 speed to replace the 5, Not sure where it's headed in the mod dept. Stay tuned!
2006 Jeep Liberty CRD, No more EGR, greendiesel eco tune, weeks' intake elbow, hemi torque converter
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Old 02-14-2015, 08:35 PM
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MnTom MnTom is offline
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I can't say about your pyrometer, but mine has only two wires for the thermocouple. There is a power wire and a ground to the gauge, but I don't know where it was run to since it was installed on the truck when I got it 14 years ago!!
I am surprised you were able to get any boost while sitting still. I can get mine to jump a little in neutral, but that's it. On the road last fall I saw 42 psi but I do believe my waste gate is stuck. Normally I would see about 35 psi. Take your truck out on the road and see what your boost is and let us know.
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Old 02-15-2015, 10:39 AM
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rancherman rancherman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MnTom View Post
I can't say about your pyrometer, but mine has only two wires for the thermocouple. There is a power wire and a ground to the gauge, but I don't know where it was run to since it was installed on the truck when I got it 14 years ago!!
I am surprised you were able to get any boost while sitting still. I can get mine to jump a little in neutral, but that's it. On the road last fall I saw 42 psi but I do believe my waste gate is stuck. Normally I would see about 35 psi. Take your truck out on the road and see what your boost is and let us know.
Yeah, 2 wires to thermocouple..

Then to the gauge is 12v keyed, 12v for the backlight, ground, THEN 2 wires for the actual thermocouple.. It's a mess.
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Just gonna list the Mopar stuff:
2000 ram 3500 4X4 reg cab, 6 speed, fass 02 drrp
1998 ram 2500 4X4 reg cab, 12v will have 6 speed to replace the 5, Not sure where it's headed in the mod dept. Stay tuned!
2006 Jeep Liberty CRD, No more EGR, greendiesel eco tune, weeks' intake elbow, hemi torque converter
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  #5  
Old 02-15-2015, 12:13 PM
kerley kerley is offline
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Default Boost,EGT and Pyrometer install

Actually the Instructions from Autometer make for an easy install.
Yellow wire loom contains two wires, the Thermocoupler drilled and tapped into the exhaust manifold has two matching wires so just connect to same.
The plug to the guage has an aditional two wires, one red and one black.
Red wire, keyed power
Black wire as per Autometer directions should be attached to the engine block for best ground. and DO NOT shorten the large Yellow wire or your new guage will loose the Calibration.
* the most difficult part for me was installing all the wires from the guage pod through the dash to and through the firewall. I still have a little clean up work to do then the road trip, to get some acurate numbers at different gears and speeds. When that is completed I will use my new Boost tester and the hunt begins for leaks, I will let ya'all know.
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Old 02-15-2015, 12:46 PM
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When you test for leaks make sure you check the plate on top of the intake manifold. They are notorious for leaking.
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Old 02-15-2015, 01:20 PM
kerley kerley is offline
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Default Boost,EGT and Pyrometer install

This is good information and something I an concerned with. I installed by Boost guage in the plate as suggested by Aurometer and thought I would ground the Pyrometer guage there aswell but I am worried about a Boost leak there, Oh Well time and testing will tell.
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Old 02-15-2015, 01:24 PM
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Sometimes you can get lucky and seal it up by tightening the bolts, but most of the time you need another gasket. I have been successful in making my own using pasteboard (think cereal boxes).
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1996 RAM "Custom Ground" 100 plate 3/4 forward, 300 injectors, 16.5 timing, Goerends Auto = 365HP, 833TQ Third Gen Rims, Aluminum Headache Rack
Duct Tape can't fix stupid, BUT it can muffle the sound
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Old 02-15-2015, 06:55 PM
kerley kerley is offline
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Default Boost,EGT and Pyrometer install

If it is leaking from the top plate would you need a new gasket or just a Permatex sealer?
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Old 02-15-2015, 09:23 PM
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That depends on what the old gasket looks like. Since there is a gasket there originally and it is required to hold pressure I would either make (or buy) a new one or maybe put some sealer on it.
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1996 RAM "Custom Ground" 100 plate 3/4 forward, 300 injectors, 16.5 timing, Goerends Auto = 365HP, 833TQ Third Gen Rims, Aluminum Headache Rack
Duct Tape can't fix stupid, BUT it can muffle the sound
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