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  #11  
Old 04-04-2016, 06:12 AM
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Coolant temp issues are back... I'm at a damned loss with this truck. Coolant reservoir is full, but radiator took another 1.5 qts of water yesterday. It will not seem to pull coolant from the overflow. Hose is not blocked or anything..
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  #12  
Old 04-04-2016, 07:40 AM
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Any indication where the coolant is going to, since he had to replace the coolant in the block and not the bottle ?
I hate to ask this, but is it the right coolant the right mixture ?
And the only other question I can think of, since it isn't putting from the punk bottle, the bottle isn't warm, is it the radiator cap ? That's the only other thing that can stop it from flowing.
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2006 Dodge Ram, 2500, Big Horn, 5.9 Cummins, 4x4, Q/Cab, 48RE, L/B, 3.73, S&B CAI & Snout, ProFlo 5" S/S exhaust, Smarty Touch, Oil ByPass Filter Kit, Transfer Flow 56 gal tank, 110 gallon in-bed tank, XX-Fuel System, Coolant Bypass Kit, Mag-Hytec front & rear, 285 x 70 x 17

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  #13  
Old 04-04-2016, 07:49 AM
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Have you tested the radiator cap? When the temperature goes up have you felt the heat? I mean does it actually get that hot or is it possible the sending unit is acting screwy? Has anyone head the fan come on? I have heard that the aluminum radiators aren't quite as efficient at shedding heat as the copper ones. Have you checked the IC and A/C condenser for blockage?
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Old 04-04-2016, 08:58 AM
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Tested the cap, replaced the cap, put the original t-stat and original wp back in, I dunno..
No bent fins or blockages through the rad, ic, or ac..
It actually gets hot.. Like real freaking hot to the touch. The fan does kick on..
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SOLD: 96 2500 sclb 4x4, 5spd swap, cam, stack, #10, bhaf, 16.5*, 27mpg
SOLD: 01 2500 qcsb 4x4 HO 6spd, 2" level, 5" exh., Edge Juice, bhaf, 16mpg
SOLD: 97 3500 cc-drw, built 47re, 3 disk, 4" exh., #100, bhaf, gauges
SOLD: 02 QCSB 2500 4x4 5.9-auto
SOLD: 97 ECLB 2500 4x4 V10-auto.. junk..
CURRENT:'06 2500 ThunderRoad QCSB 5.9CTD 4x4, built Auto; '02 Silverado 2500HD 6.0L CrewCab LB 4x4; '14 vw cc r-line 2.0t 6 speed

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  #15  
Old 04-04-2016, 02:43 PM
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Does the radiator get hot? Have you looked at the lower hose when it is over heating to see if it has collapsed?
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  #16  
Old 04-05-2016, 03:01 AM
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Rogan, I know this might sound stupid, but you did say you had a replacement water pump and changed it back to the original. You also said you changed out the thermostat.

Have you run the truck with the radiator cap off to visiually see if the liquid moves when the coolant is getting hot ? This would verify that the thermostat is actually opening and the water pump is actually moving the liquid.

If this is actually happening, then it has to be more towards the lousy radiator cap again. So if this is back to the radiator cap, is it the standard push and twist or the kind with the relief lever that you can test to see if it actually get a flow to the puck bottle ? If nothing else, if you have one with the lever on it at about the same pressure rating, it might be worth a test.

I recently had a bad radiator cap and the new replacement was from O'Rielly and was bad, then the next one they gave me was bad. I had to get the third one from Dodge to get it right.
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2006 Dodge Ram, 2500, Big Horn, 5.9 Cummins, 4x4, Q/Cab, 48RE, L/B, 3.73, S&B CAI & Snout, ProFlo 5" S/S exhaust, Smarty Touch, Oil ByPass Filter Kit, Transfer Flow 56 gal tank, 110 gallon in-bed tank, XX-Fuel System, Coolant Bypass Kit, Mag-Hytec front & rear, 285 x 70 x 17

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  #17  
Old 04-05-2016, 08:41 PM
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Thinking about this, I can't help think that you may have a gasket problem..

It's leaking out 'somewhere'.. but not able to hold pressure or vacuum to draw coolant back in from overflow bottle when it cools down.

when you couple the heating events, you might have a bubble you are chasing around, which may be directly tied to a bad head gasket.

Test your coolant for exhaust gas yet?
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  #18  
Old 04-08-2016, 07:11 AM
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coolant tested, etc.. Here's the review... Radiator was leaking, so we replaced that with an all-aluminum one.. While we were in there, slapped a new tstat, wp, and upper/lower hoses on.. THAT, is when the overheating issues started..

Replaced the rad cap with another new one: no change
Replaced the new tstat with original one: no change
Replaced the new water pump with the old one: CHANGE.. overheating issues all but went away

Recent: Climbs above 205-208 every once in awhile (195* tstat), and once above 240, causing the tuner to defuel.

No overheating issues at all, prior to replacing the radiator and stuff. Since replacing all the stuff initially, that's when the coolant overflow transfer stopped taking place.. Cooling system will hold pressure/vacuum, as that has been verified.
I'm leaning a little to the tank issue as to how the radiator nipple to the tank configuration is on the aftermarket radiator. It's very very similar to the OE styling, but it still makes me wonder. It will fully fill the overflow tank, but not pull from it. There is no obstruction "check-valving" the line, either.. It baffles the crap out of me.. But as Tom knows, these problems like this are the bane of my existence and I will fight them to the bitter end! LOL
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SOLD: 96 2500 sclb 4x4, 5spd swap, cam, stack, #10, bhaf, 16.5*, 27mpg
SOLD: 01 2500 qcsb 4x4 HO 6spd, 2" level, 5" exh., Edge Juice, bhaf, 16mpg
SOLD: 97 3500 cc-drw, built 47re, 3 disk, 4" exh., #100, bhaf, gauges
SOLD: 02 QCSB 2500 4x4 5.9-auto
SOLD: 97 ECLB 2500 4x4 V10-auto.. junk..
CURRENT:'06 2500 ThunderRoad QCSB 5.9CTD 4x4, built Auto; '02 Silverado 2500HD 6.0L CrewCab LB 4x4; '14 vw cc r-line 2.0t 6 speed

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  #19  
Old 04-08-2016, 08:11 AM
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anoldbiker anoldbiker is offline
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If the puke bottle cap vent is clear,
The hose and fittings from the radiator and punk bottle is clear,
When hot and pressure builds the cap allows liquid to flow to the puke bottle,

Then the only other thing I can think of is the 'vaccum breaker' on the radiator cap is malfunctioning.

The thermostat has a seal and temperature/pressure activated spring to maintain pressure in the radiator, and opens when it is high in temperature/pressure allowing the liquid to flow to the puke bottle. When the pressure drops, the vacuum break on the cap allows it to flow back to the radiator keeping it filled with liquid for the process. If the vacuum breaker isn't working properly, then the flow of liquid return is prohibited from happening.
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File Type: jpg radcapneck.jpg (21.3 KB, 1 views)
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2006 Dodge Ram, 2500, Big Horn, 5.9 Cummins, 4x4, Q/Cab, 48RE, L/B, 3.73, S&B CAI & Snout, ProFlo 5" S/S exhaust, Smarty Touch, Oil ByPass Filter Kit, Transfer Flow 56 gal tank, 110 gallon in-bed tank, XX-Fuel System, Coolant Bypass Kit, Mag-Hytec front & rear, 285 x 70 x 17

We the people are the rightful masters of both Congress and the courts, not to overthrow the Constitution but to overthrow the men who pervert the Constitution.
~ Abraham Lincoln
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  #20  
Old 04-08-2016, 08:25 AM
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How long does this thing take to get hot? When it gets hot have you felt both tanks on the radiator? Does the heater put out hot air? What does it take to cool it back down? Does idling cool it down?
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Duct Tape can't fix stupid, BUT it can muffle the sound
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