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Old 03-01-2016, 02:03 PM
kerley kerley is offline
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Default Fuel Level ??

Noticed this morning that the OEM fuel level gage is not operating properly. Before and during inserting the ignition key the gage reads empty. Turn the switch on and the fuel gage goes to full. Problem is that I know there is only half a tank of diesel in the tank.
Also I am concerned about the one fourth tank issues. I have read that the Vulcan Jeep in tank fuel cannister/gage and extended draw straw will solve those issues, and is a costly item to purchase, that's why I am asking for knowledgeable input on the subject.

I know dropping the fuel tank is a pain in the ### and a lot of work. Some folks unbolt the bed and lift it up for access to the fuel tank canister. I read where one fella cut a square hole in the bed over the canister but had to reconstruct a box rib then covered the hole with a larger piece of box bed from a wrecked truck.

So what I need to know... 1] Is the Vulcan a bullet proof repair ? 2] what is the fastest and easiest way to do this repair. Please chime in as I need advice. Kerley
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Old 03-01-2016, 08:26 PM
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MnTom MnTom is offline
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You probably need a new sender or it is possibly repair your old one. When my sender failed it would not read anything. I lifted the bed (more on this later), pulled the module and repaired the sender. The wiper lost contact with the wire wrap. I was able to turn the wiper over and it has been functioning ever since and that was about 12 or so years ago. Now, on to lifting the bed. It is quite easy to do. Find yourself a 15MM socket and about 12" of extension. If you have a long box you will find four bolts on the outside of the frame (two each side). Pull those and check to see if you have a ground wire on the right front side by the bed mount. If you do just unscrew the screw in the bed. The four back bolts are inside of the frame rails with holes in the lower flange big enough to get your socket through. Pull the two right behind the axle and loosen but don't remove the two at the rear of the frame (you will want to remove your spare if it is in place). You will want to pull the rod used to crank the winch for your spare which is nothing more than pulling a hitch hairpin. If you have a short box the only difference is two less bolts in front of the axle. Lift the bed (two guys can do it) and be sure to block the bed so it can't fall on you. Now you can remove the module (by unscrewing the big nut). The reason I prefer to lift the box is that you can make your repairs and test things before you button things up. You can also look through the window so you can see the gauge move as you move the sender. I have a sender that is new for a 24V truck sitting in my garage that I would make you a good deal on if you want.
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Old 03-02-2016, 12:24 PM
kerley kerley is offline
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Mtn. Tom
Thank you for the reply. Please post the part number off the sending unit package so I can verify that it will work on my truck, there appears to be several different parts for different size fuel tanks.
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Old 03-02-2016, 01:33 PM
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These are the only numbers on it. I think the -157 is the main number to look at. I think this one is for a 2002 truck so I don't know if it is the same.

Also, here is an old write up that may be of some assistance too: http://dodgeram.org/tech/repair/fuel...sender-diy.htm

Wow, that is a big picture!
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1996 RAM "Custom Ground" 100 plate 3/4 forward, 300 injectors, 16.5 timing, Goerends Auto = 365HP, 833TQ Third Gen Rims, Aluminum Headache Rack
Duct Tape can't fix stupid, BUT it can muffle the sound
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Old 03-02-2016, 01:34 PM
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anoldbiker anoldbiker is offline
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Taking the sending unit out by lifting the bed is the easiest way to repair or replace. But how long has it been since anything has been done to the tank ? Has it indicated in anyway that it might need cleaning ? If so, now is the time to consider this. (Just a thought.)
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Old 03-02-2016, 08:26 PM
kerley kerley is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anoldbiker View Post
Taking the sending unit out by lifting the bed is the easiest way to repair or replace. But how long has it been since anything has been done to the tank ? Has it indicated in anyway that it might need cleaning ? If so, now is the time to consider this. (Just a thought.)
Arnold you are right on. I wonder when the bed is lifted, would the tank just lift out, if so that would be easy but remember Murphy's Law. If I remove the tank I will have it steam cleaned and replace every part with new parts, I just have a problem doing anything half assed.
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Old 03-02-2016, 08:33 PM
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Kerley, what year is your truck, anyhow?
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1996 RAM "Custom Ground" 100 plate 3/4 forward, 300 injectors, 16.5 timing, Goerends Auto = 365HP, 833TQ Third Gen Rims, Aluminum Headache Rack
Duct Tape can't fix stupid, BUT it can muffle the sound
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Old 03-05-2016, 09:52 AM
kerley kerley is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MnTom View Post
Kerley, what year is your truck, anyhow?
1998.5 Cummins 4x4 / 5 speed. Mn Tom if you go to Rock Auto .com they have fuel tank sending units. You can run multiple Dodge years till you find the one that matches yours, good luck,Kerley
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Old 03-05-2016, 10:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kerley View Post
1998.5 Cummins 4x4 / 5 speed. Mn Tom if you go to Rock Auto .com they have fuel tank sending units. You can run multiple Dodge years till you find the one that matches yours, good luck,Kerley
Maybe if I had an actual part number. I can't see the numbers on the units in the pictures.......
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1996 RAM "Custom Ground" 100 plate 3/4 forward, 300 injectors, 16.5 timing, Goerends Auto = 365HP, 833TQ Third Gen Rims, Aluminum Headache Rack
Duct Tape can't fix stupid, BUT it can muffle the sound
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Old 03-08-2016, 09:00 AM
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Any luck with the sending unit, Kerley?
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1996 RAM "Custom Ground" 100 plate 3/4 forward, 300 injectors, 16.5 timing, Goerends Auto = 365HP, 833TQ Third Gen Rims, Aluminum Headache Rack
Duct Tape can't fix stupid, BUT it can muffle the sound
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