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Old 07-15-2016, 01:07 PM
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rancherman rancherman is offline
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Default more electrical gremlins

OK! got the starter issue resolved, and the problems roll on to the next!

for about 6 months, the drivers side power window has been goofy. Going 'UP', no problem. Going 'down'... nothing happens... but if I smacked the door panel with the butt of my palm, it'd suddenly work.. Makes me think it's the switch or electrical connection. Smacking the door panel right in the area of the switch is the only place it seems to be effective.
Man, I hate the 'first time' of taking a door panel off!

Next thing, yesterday, I had low fuel, and promptly filled it up. The gauge didn't come back to 'full'.. stayed at empty.
son says it has done that a couple times in past 6 months. And always when it was quite low.
When I shut it down and restarted it an hour later, it zoomed up to 'full'.
Stuck float??
None of these are 'life threatening'.. lol, unless running out of fuel in the middle of a tornado is a factor.. but if I don' get these taken care of, well, pretty soon there will be a lot more to do.
This is on the '00
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1998 ram 2500 4X4 reg cab, 12v will have 6 speed to replace the 5, Not sure where it's headed in the mod dept. Stay tuned!
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Old 07-15-2016, 07:08 PM
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Those aren't terrible problems. The door switch is straight forward to replace and just a quick look shows JCWhitney has one for $30 and change, ebay for $45, etc. For the fuel gauge, chances are the sending unit is probably the problem. The wiper on it will occasionally loose contact with the resistor. You can replace just the sending unit or quite possibly fix it so it works again. I repaired the one on a '94 and my '96 trucks. The easiest way I found to get to the sending unit is to lift the bed. I don't know if you have a short box or long box, but the procedure is just about the same. Under the bed there are six bolts (they are all 15mm) on a short box and eight on a long box. Remove all the bolts except the back two. Just loosen those because they will act as a hinge. Remove the spare tire and the tube going to the winch (just a hairpin). Lift the box in the front and BLOCK IT UP. You now have access to the fuel tank module and can test it in place. Some guys say it is easier to drop the tank, but I have a difficult time with the fuel lines so I lift the bed.
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Old 07-15-2016, 07:41 PM
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The only advantage I see of dropping the tank is to drain and check if there is any water droplets or more in there. But if you're not seeing water in the water separator at anytime, there more than likely none.
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2006 Dodge Ram, 2500, Big Horn, 5.9 Cummins, 4x4, Q/Cab, 48RE, L/B, 3.73, S&B CAI & Snout, ProFlo 5" S/S exhaust, Smarty Touch, Oil ByPass Filter Kit, Transfer Flow 56 gal tank, 110 gallon in-bed tank, XX-Fuel System, Coolant Bypass Kit, Mag-Hytec front & rear, 285 x 70 x 17

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Old 07-16-2016, 01:27 PM
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I see there are a few listings on Ebay of 'good used' take out switches. My experience with aftermarket or even oem 'replacement' are always been poor at best.. Nothing is better than factory original!!
Good to hear the switch is not going to be too tough to change out!

I have a flat bed on the truck, and removing wouldn't be too terrible, about the same amount of mounting bolts as the original bed..
speaking of which, I'm going to double check the electrical connection... the flat bed doesn't 'protect' the top of the tank near as well as the original bed. Those inner fender wells in the bed DO help out!
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Just gonna list the Mopar stuff:
2000 ram 3500 4X4 reg cab, 6 speed, fass 02 drrp
1998 ram 2500 4X4 reg cab, 12v will have 6 speed to replace the 5, Not sure where it's headed in the mod dept. Stay tuned!
2006 Jeep Liberty CRD, No more EGR, greendiesel eco tune, weeks' intake elbow, hemi torque converter
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Old 07-16-2016, 09:07 PM
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MnTom MnTom is offline
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Yea, sometimes a guy can get lucky with a used part. The "less expensive" aftermarket parts are a crap shoot at best. The only problem with OEM is the pricing. Have you looked at Rock Auto? They have some pretty competitive prices for quality parts.
You may be on to something with the flatbed and the connector on top of the tank. It doesn't take much resistance to screw up the gauge.
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1996 RAM "Custom Ground" 100 plate 3/4 forward, 300 injectors, 16.5 timing, Goerends Auto = 365HP, 833TQ Third Gen Rims, Aluminum Headache Rack
Duct Tape can't fix stupid, BUT it can muffle the sound
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Old 07-17-2016, 08:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rancherman View Post
... the flat bed doesn't 'protect' the top of the tank near as well as the original bed. Those inner fender wells in the bed DO help out!


In the late '80's my wife was driving home and the car stopped working. It was raining hard that day. After trying to restart it, she called for help. I couldn't get it running so I towed it home. In the garage where it was dry I found a fuse had pop and the only other thing was a bunch of small branches around the starter area she picked up while driving. Cleaned out the trash and put in a new fuse, tried to restart for the heck of it .. and it worked. Finding nothing else, we decided to run it and see what happened. Everything worked since then. Seems the branches were moist enough to let the electrical path cross two points that tripped the fuse.

Electrical issues are automotive problems that come closes to insanity than no other issue. And from what I saw, there should have been enough protection with all that plastic to not allow this to happen.
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2006 Dodge Ram, 2500, Big Horn, 5.9 Cummins, 4x4, Q/Cab, 48RE, L/B, 3.73, S&B CAI & Snout, ProFlo 5" S/S exhaust, Smarty Touch, Oil ByPass Filter Kit, Transfer Flow 56 gal tank, 110 gallon in-bed tank, XX-Fuel System, Coolant Bypass Kit, Mag-Hytec front & rear, 285 x 70 x 17

We the people are the rightful masters of both Congress and the courts, not to overthrow the Constitution but to overthrow the men who pervert the Constitution.
~ Abraham Lincoln
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