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  #1  
Old 02-19-2011, 11:23 PM
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Default Lug Nut Torque and Tightening Pattern

Lugnut torque
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File Type: pdf LugNutTorque.pdf (30.8 KB, 6 views)
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1996 RAM "Custom Ground" 100 plate 3/4 forward, 300 injectors, 16.5 timing, Goerends Auto = 365HP, 833TQ Third Gen Rims, Aluminum Headache Rack
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Old 02-21-2011, 08:17 PM
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Nice PDF... Even though I knew most that but it good for the newbies...
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2002 Dodge Ram 2500, 5.9L Cummins Turbo Diesel, 5 Speed NV4500 transmission, 4x4, 3.55 Gears, AirDog 150 fuel pump with 1/2" Big Line Kit, Stock Bosch VP44 Injection Pump, Bosch RV275 Injectors +40HP, Edge Comp Performance Box, BHAF (Big Honkin' Air Filter), Stock Holset HX35W Turbo, Straight 3" Pipe Exhaust, Crankcase Vent Mod, High Idle Mod, MPG / IAT fooler Mod, ScanGauge II, 25% Tinted Windows, DiPricol Gauges (Fuel pressure, Boost, Pyrometer), 235/85 R16 tires mounted on 16x7 Aluminum mags (weighing 62#), Custom Fog Lights, Custom Backup lights, Silverstar Headlights, 23-24 MPG

1996 Dodge Ram 1500, 5.9L Magnum V8 Gasoline Engine, 46RE Automatic Transmission, 4WD with CAD axle with 3.55 Gears, Mopar Performance PCM, Gutted Kitty, ScanGauge II, 35% Tinted Windows, 16-17 MPG

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Old 02-21-2011, 09:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mopar1973man View Post
Nice PDF... Even though I knew most that but it good for the newbies...
That is why we are here!! We need to help EVERYONE that want help, just like on your site!
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1996 RAM "Custom Ground" 100 plate 3/4 forward, 300 injectors, 16.5 timing, Goerends Auto = 365HP, 833TQ Third Gen Rims, Aluminum Headache Rack
Duct Tape can't fix stupid, BUT it can muffle the sound
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Old 02-21-2011, 09:45 PM
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One thing I do is put a dab of oil on the threads. I wipe the excess off so it doesn't have so much on there that it hydrolocks. My threads look brand new. When you take the lugnut off, they will look the same as when you oiled them. Only works on the closed end lugnuts, I grease the open end ones so they stand a little better chance.

This also makes the torque rating accurate. Rusty threads get tight before the lugnuts are truly tight. This is because of all the friction of dry surfaces. More accurate bolt torque charts will have an oiled and dry torque. Dry threads need about 25% more torque.

When you get a general number like what Tom provided, you don't really know if that is a dry or oiled number. It is generally assumed that the bolt is oiled since that is the proper way, but you never know. For a general number like that, I oil them and go by that number.
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Old 02-21-2011, 10:33 PM
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Yeah that is a key thing... To be sure the threads are lubed and clean. Most tire shop get carried away with the spray on grease...
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2002 Dodge Ram 2500, 5.9L Cummins Turbo Diesel, 5 Speed NV4500 transmission, 4x4, 3.55 Gears, AirDog 150 fuel pump with 1/2" Big Line Kit, Stock Bosch VP44 Injection Pump, Bosch RV275 Injectors +40HP, Edge Comp Performance Box, BHAF (Big Honkin' Air Filter), Stock Holset HX35W Turbo, Straight 3" Pipe Exhaust, Crankcase Vent Mod, High Idle Mod, MPG / IAT fooler Mod, ScanGauge II, 25% Tinted Windows, DiPricol Gauges (Fuel pressure, Boost, Pyrometer), 235/85 R16 tires mounted on 16x7 Aluminum mags (weighing 62#), Custom Fog Lights, Custom Backup lights, Silverstar Headlights, 23-24 MPG

1996 Dodge Ram 1500, 5.9L Magnum V8 Gasoline Engine, 46RE Automatic Transmission, 4WD with CAD axle with 3.55 Gears, Mopar Performance PCM, Gutted Kitty, ScanGauge II, 35% Tinted Windows, 16-17 MPG

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