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Old 03-12-2011, 06:08 PM
stodg73's Avatar
stodg73 stodg73 is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Southern Colorado
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Default Leaf Spring Removal or Replacement

Leaf Spring Replacement

When doing a leaf spring replacement, make sure that you have all the necessary parts to do it, i.e. replacement spring or spring pack, replacement bushings, replacement bolts, lots of penetrating oil, etc. Some tools you will need will be minimum 2 jack stands, jack, strap/chain, impact wrench/ large breaker bar, various hand tools.

The hardest thing to doing this is getting all the bolts loose. You need to use lots of penetrating oil or some heat in order to get them off.

There are 2 ways to do this, the first involves taking the axle completely out of the vehicle, i.e. disconnecting the driveshaft, brake lines, e-brake cable, and shackle bolts, then rolling it out from under the truck. If you are going to go this route, you have to bleed your brakes when completed.

The other way is to keep the axle under the truck, so spray penetrating oil onto all bolts that are connected to the spring pack, along with the u-bolts holding the spring to the axle.

Jack the truck up to where you can remove the tire, support the frame on one of the jack stands, then remove the tire, spray more penetrating oil on bolts/nuts, put the second jack stand under the axle as tight as you can without loading the axle any.

Use a strap/chain attached to the frame, to go under the axle, and then back to the frame, this is a safety measure, placing the strap/chain near where the spring mounts on the axle.

Using the impact wrench or large breaker bar, break free the rear shackle bolts, and remove the shackle.

Now, take the front spring bolt out.

The U-Bolts are very stubborn to remove, so spray some more penetrating oil on them. Take the u-bolts off.

This is where you have to decide if you want to replace the bushings that are currently on the truck. Now, if you are adding just a leaf spring or replacing a leaf, there is a bolt in the middle of the spring pack that needs to be removed. So spray more penetrating oil for this one.

Installation is reverse of removal.
O.O., 01.5, Dodge, 2500, High Output (H.O.) Cummins Turbo Diesel (245/505), Quad Cab Long Bed (QCLB), 4x4, Sport, Original Bosch VP 44 Injection Pump, 6 Speed/NV5600 Transmission, 3.55 Gears, 105k, currently stock engine, Fram Air Filter, 285/75R16s, Glow Shift Gauges: Fuel Pressure (FP), Boost, Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT), Oil Temperature, SMARTY@1, Airtex lift pump 19 psi @ idle, 14 psi @ WOT, Propane Injection, 2 Stroke Oil, Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Fooler = Better MPG, Bed Lined, Chrome Nerf Bars, more to come!!

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Old 03-12-2011, 09:28 PM
MnTom's Avatar
MnTom MnTom is offline
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Near Duluth, Mn
Posts: 4,931

Another thing that helps a lot is to wire brush the threads of all the bolts you want to remove. A wire brush in a drill or an angle grinder with a wire wheel makes the job go better yet.
1996 RAM "Custom Ground" 100 plate 3/4 forward, 300 injectors, 16.5 timing, Goerends Auto = 365HP, 833TQ Third Gen Rims, Aluminum Headache Rack
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Old 03-16-2011, 09:19 AM
Regen Regen is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Colorado
Posts: 68

This looks really a easy repair or replacement. Thanks for the information.
2004.5 GMC Duramax, 4x4, Extended cab, Short bed, Bought it used so; unknown injectors, unknown turbo, unknown upgrades, but what a ride and 26 MPG
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