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Old 04-05-2011, 06:54 PM
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Mopar1973Man Mopar1973Man is offline
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Default Front axle - Inspection and pulling right.

Ok Gang...

I have had enough of my truck need constant counter-steering to the left it get back enough I'm starting to have problem hold it straight. I've got 183K miles on the clock and nothing but front axle bearing have been done.

Anyone got sure fire ways of inspection of the ball joints and tie rod ends to tell if they need replacing. I know I could look in the Dodge FSM but I rather hear from all of you that have done axle work and what to look for.

I can say my tires are still wearing good and straight no feathering or tappering of the tread.

I'm going to jack up the nose of the truck and take a peek and see what I can find...

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2002 Dodge Ram 2500, 5.9L Cummins Turbo Diesel, 5 Speed NV4500 transmission, 4x4, 3.55 Gears, AirDog 150 fuel pump with 1/2" Big Line Kit, Stock Bosch VP44 Injection Pump, Bosch RV275 Injectors +40HP, Edge Comp Performance Box, BHAF (Big Honkin' Air Filter), Stock Holset HX35W Turbo, Straight 3" Pipe Exhaust, Crankcase Vent Mod, High Idle Mod, MPG / IAT fooler Mod, ScanGauge II, 25% Tinted Windows, DiPricol Gauges (Fuel pressure, Boost, Pyrometer), 235/85 R16 tires mounted on 16x7 Aluminum mags (weighing 62#), Custom Fog Lights, Custom Backup lights, Silverstar Headlights, 23-24 MPG

1996 Dodge Ram 1500, 5.9L Magnum V8 Gasoline Engine, 46RE Automatic Transmission, 4WD with CAD axle with 3.55 Gears, Mopar Performance PCM, Gutted Kitty, ScanGauge II, 35% Tinted Windows, 16-17 MPG

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Old 04-05-2011, 08:14 PM
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Well, there are a couple of things that I see. One is the trac bar, but you knew that, right? The other is you have the lighter duty steering. The way the tie rods twist tell me that. You can get the parts from NAPA to upgrade your steering to a more heavy duty like NikkiMn has on her truck. Look at this for some help there:http://www.mark74.com/ram_modificati...ver%20steering Then jack up each side and use a pry bar to see if you can lift the tire and feel any kind of a clunk. You will know if you feel one. If you do then the lower ball joint is loose. Grab the top of the tire and push and pull it. Any movement is either the upper ball joint is loose or the wheel bearings are loose. Another thing that helps the 4WD trucks a lot is the steering stabilizerhttp://www.mark74.com/ram_modifications.htm#DSS . You can look here for an updated trac bar: http://www.solidsteel.ca/Trackbar.htm.
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Last edited by MnTom; 04-05-2011 at 08:17 PM.
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Old 04-06-2011, 05:22 AM
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I would dive in head first with balljoints, upgraded steering parts, and a grease gun to see what cha might find.
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Old 04-06-2011, 08:57 AM
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Be aware that right from Rockauto.com ball joint page...

Quote:
RAYBESTOS Part # 5001108B Service Grade
Front ; Upper; Four Wheel Drive (4X4); By Design The Stud Does Not Articulate, It Only Spins. Up And Down Movement Is Normal
I knew the Track bar is one project... But what I need to do is break this do and do the worse one first and get a few jobs behind me and do the next in line...

So would you agreee the track bar first?
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2002 Dodge Ram 2500, 5.9L Cummins Turbo Diesel, 5 Speed NV4500 transmission, 4x4, 3.55 Gears, AirDog 150 fuel pump with 1/2" Big Line Kit, Stock Bosch VP44 Injection Pump, Bosch RV275 Injectors +40HP, Edge Comp Performance Box, BHAF (Big Honkin' Air Filter), Stock Holset HX35W Turbo, Straight 3" Pipe Exhaust, Crankcase Vent Mod, High Idle Mod, MPG / IAT fooler Mod, ScanGauge II, 25% Tinted Windows, DiPricol Gauges (Fuel pressure, Boost, Pyrometer), 235/85 R16 tires mounted on 16x7 Aluminum mags (weighing 62#), Custom Fog Lights, Custom Backup lights, Silverstar Headlights, 23-24 MPG

1996 Dodge Ram 1500, 5.9L Magnum V8 Gasoline Engine, 46RE Automatic Transmission, 4WD with CAD axle with 3.55 Gears, Mopar Performance PCM, Gutted Kitty, ScanGauge II, 35% Tinted Windows, 16-17 MPG

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Old 04-06-2011, 07:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mopar1973man View Post
So would you agreee the track bar first?
Definitely. Does your truck actually pull to the right or is just the steering wheel crooked? The track bar might be allowing the axle to move enough to cause it to pull some.....
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Duct Tape can't fix stupid, BUT it can muffle the sound
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Old 04-07-2011, 07:43 AM
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Also a hanging brake caliper will cause a pull to one side.
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Old 04-07-2011, 08:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MnTom View Post
Definitely. Does your truck actually pull to the right or is just the steering wheel crooked? The track bar might be allowing the axle to move enough to cause it to pull some.....
Steering wheel is held at a 45* to the left and it's pulling to the right... So hold at 45* left it hold about center of the lane.
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2002 Dodge Ram 2500, 5.9L Cummins Turbo Diesel, 5 Speed NV4500 transmission, 4x4, 3.55 Gears, AirDog 150 fuel pump with 1/2" Big Line Kit, Stock Bosch VP44 Injection Pump, Bosch RV275 Injectors +40HP, Edge Comp Performance Box, BHAF (Big Honkin' Air Filter), Stock Holset HX35W Turbo, Straight 3" Pipe Exhaust, Crankcase Vent Mod, High Idle Mod, MPG / IAT fooler Mod, ScanGauge II, 25% Tinted Windows, DiPricol Gauges (Fuel pressure, Boost, Pyrometer), 235/85 R16 tires mounted on 16x7 Aluminum mags (weighing 62#), Custom Fog Lights, Custom Backup lights, Silverstar Headlights, 23-24 MPG

1996 Dodge Ram 1500, 5.9L Magnum V8 Gasoline Engine, 46RE Automatic Transmission, 4WD with CAD axle with 3.55 Gears, Mopar Performance PCM, Gutted Kitty, ScanGauge II, 35% Tinted Windows, 16-17 MPG

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Old 04-07-2011, 08:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mopar1973man View Post
Steering wheel is held at a 45* to the left and it's pulling to the right... So hold at 45* left it hold about center of the lane.
So then this pulling to the right came on gradually or all at once?
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1996 RAM "Custom Ground" 100 plate 3/4 forward, 300 injectors, 16.5 timing, Goerends Auto = 365HP, 833TQ Third Gen Rims, Aluminum Headache Rack
Duct Tape can't fix stupid, BUT it can muffle the sound
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Old 04-08-2011, 10:23 PM
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Gradually...

Well after hunting around... I went to Ontario, OR shopping and check the name brand store down there and about fell over. They wanted $150 to $160 for chinese junk. :sarcasm:

Then Napa wants $82 for there cheapy with 12K miles or 12 month warranty. :sarcasm:

Then go over to RockAuto.Com and they want $52 bucks for a MevoTech Trackbar with a 5 year or 100,000km warranty... No bad...
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Michael Nelson - AKA: Mopar1973Man - Forum & Articles
2002 Dodge Ram 2500, 5.9L Cummins Turbo Diesel, 5 Speed NV4500 transmission, 4x4, 3.55 Gears, AirDog 150 fuel pump with 1/2" Big Line Kit, Stock Bosch VP44 Injection Pump, Bosch RV275 Injectors +40HP, Edge Comp Performance Box, BHAF (Big Honkin' Air Filter), Stock Holset HX35W Turbo, Straight 3" Pipe Exhaust, Crankcase Vent Mod, High Idle Mod, MPG / IAT fooler Mod, ScanGauge II, 25% Tinted Windows, DiPricol Gauges (Fuel pressure, Boost, Pyrometer), 235/85 R16 tires mounted on 16x7 Aluminum mags (weighing 62#), Custom Fog Lights, Custom Backup lights, Silverstar Headlights, 23-24 MPG

1996 Dodge Ram 1500, 5.9L Magnum V8 Gasoline Engine, 46RE Automatic Transmission, 4WD with CAD axle with 3.55 Gears, Mopar Performance PCM, Gutted Kitty, ScanGauge II, 35% Tinted Windows, 16-17 MPG

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Old 04-09-2011, 05:58 AM
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That sounds about right.... I needed an idler arm for mine and one place was $179 for one with a lifetime warranty and $89 for a 12 month warranty. The ONLY difference was the part number. One was something like #4795 and the other was #4795K. It pays to shop around.
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1996 RAM "Custom Ground" 100 plate 3/4 forward, 300 injectors, 16.5 timing, Goerends Auto = 365HP, 833TQ Third Gen Rims, Aluminum Headache Rack
Duct Tape can't fix stupid, BUT it can muffle the sound
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