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  #1  
Old 07-05-2011, 12:02 PM
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DavidMN DavidMN is offline
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Default $10 Fuel Selenoid Fix

Okay, so up at BIR a week ago and tell MNTom about my truck not having power after startup sometimes. Tom fiddles around and determines my Fuel Selenoid is not lifting the fuel control sufficiently. Seems the boot is bunching up and is really nasty.

Okay, this Friday afternoon I take it apart and voila, the part that attaches to the fuel control arm falls out of the steel core. A split ring is worn and won't "retain" the bits/pieces of the selenoid that pull up the arm.

Being the dunce that I am about Cummins I call MnTom and get a lesson in "engine runs with key off if expensive parts are simply removed." A watershed moment in my evolving diesel experience. Now I think... "if I can manually do this, can't a cheap wire fix this?"

Yipee! My truck has a lovely new knob. It is a very dependable knob. It is a $5 knob. It is in my price range!!!

IMG00366.jpg

The new knob.

IMG00362.jpg

What the knob attaches to.

IMG00361.jpg

My very ingenious "shelf hardware now auto part" contrivance.

IMG00364.jpg

Some extra bits from Fleet Farm.

So... who the heck needs a $100 to $200 fancy electrical component when an old $5 choke cable and a some other bits from Fleet Farm make such a nifty fuel control. Granted, I had to tweak the "system" a few times so it would actually press the arm down sufficiently to shut off fuel, but easily done and highly effective.

In the mean time, if anyone is some sort of machining genius or something and wants to help me replace the little ring that holds the selenoid bits together, I believe that the component is electrically sound. I will get some inner tube rubber from the neighbor kid to make a new boot. If you like I will post some pics of the selenoid in it's disassembled state so you can see what I mean.
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Old 07-05-2011, 04:51 PM
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How about a new solenoid for $88? Look here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/94-98...item2eae17a7bb
How about a new boot for $9.50? Look here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DODGE...item3f0987c481
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1996 RAM "Custom Ground" 100 plate 3/4 forward, 300 injectors, 16.5 timing, Goerends Auto = 365HP, 833TQ Third Gen Rims, Aluminum Headache Rack
Duct Tape can't fix stupid, BUT it can muffle the sound

Last edited by MnTom; 07-05-2011 at 04:54 PM.
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Old 07-08-2011, 09:41 AM
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Default New Part

Tom,

Thanks for the links, just ordered the new part. Someday I will get the machine shop to help me fix the compression ring that holds the parts together on my old one and get it working again. Choke cable idea works 90% of the time. The times it won't shut off the truck are in a parking lot with babes hanging around. Bad form! Of course, the knob fits the decor of the truck, eh? Haha.

Happy days to all.
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Old 07-08-2011, 08:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidMN View Post
Tom,

The times it won't shut off the truck are in a parking lot with babes hanging around. Bad form! Of course, the knob fits the decor of the truck, eh? Haha.

Happy days to all.
Yep, that truck is a babe magnet all right.........:sarcasm::nya:
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1996 RAM "Custom Ground" 100 plate 3/4 forward, 300 injectors, 16.5 timing, Goerends Auto = 365HP, 833TQ Third Gen Rims, Aluminum Headache Rack
Duct Tape can't fix stupid, BUT it can muffle the sound
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Old 07-15-2011, 11:32 AM
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Default All better now

Ordered the part noted in MnTom's post. I got it in about 4-5 calendar days. Even came with some nice gloves to keep your hands clean. Took about 5 minutes to gather tools and about 6 more to install. Runs like a champ as always.
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Old 07-15-2011, 04:38 PM
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Good deal! Nice to know you can get it running when you need to, eh?
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1996 RAM "Custom Ground" 100 plate 3/4 forward, 300 injectors, 16.5 timing, Goerends Auto = 365HP, 833TQ Third Gen Rims, Aluminum Headache Rack
Duct Tape can't fix stupid, BUT it can muffle the sound
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Old 07-15-2011, 08:42 PM
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Default Amen

Yep. Trying to find out if there is anyway that something in the column is why it won't start in park sometimes. Sometimes I wiggle the shifter a bit and it starts fine. Sometimes just have to put it in neutral.
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Old 07-16-2011, 05:56 AM
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There is a good possibility that the problem is the neutral safety switch. The switch is on the transmission and is a simple swap. This is what it looks like:

At NAPA the part number should be ECH NS6514 and they get $13.79 for it locally.
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1996 RAM "Custom Ground" 100 plate 3/4 forward, 300 injectors, 16.5 timing, Goerends Auto = 365HP, 833TQ Third Gen Rims, Aluminum Headache Rack
Duct Tape can't fix stupid, BUT it can muffle the sound
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