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  #21  
Old 10-17-2012, 07:03 PM
pri_i_oh pri_i_oh is offline
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Probably just leave it in there. There isnt much. None of my guages work right now other then my tach not sure why but thats a whole other disaster. Chased wires for 2 years. I think its the ECM (the one on the side of the block)
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  #22  
Old 10-17-2012, 07:40 PM
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With fuel in the tank, there is a really good chance that you may hurt yourself as you disconnect the tank straps.

The tach on your truck should be run by the crankshaft sensor. I wonder if your crankshaft sensor or tone ring is out, thus causing all of the problems.

Did you ever pull any codes?
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O.O., 01.5, Dodge, 2500, High Output (H.O.) Cummins Turbo Diesel (245/505), Quad Cab Long Bed (QCLB), 4x4, Sport, Original Bosch VP 44 Injection Pump, 6 Speed/NV5600 Transmission, 3.55 Gears, 105k, currently stock engine, Fram Air Filter, 285/75R16s, Glow Shift Gauges: Fuel Pressure (FP), Boost, Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT), Oil Temperature, SMARTY@1, Airtex lift pump 19 psi @ idle, 14 psi @ WOT, Propane Injection, 2 Stroke Oil, Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Fooler = Better MPG, Bed Lined, Chrome Nerf Bars, more to come!!

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  #23  
Old 10-17-2012, 07:47 PM
pri_i_oh pri_i_oh is offline
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The tach is the only guage that DOES work
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  #24  
Old 10-17-2012, 08:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pri_i_oh View Post
The tach is the only guage that DOES work
I see, well there went that theory.

Still be careful when you drop the tank.
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O.O., 01.5, Dodge, 2500, High Output (H.O.) Cummins Turbo Diesel (245/505), Quad Cab Long Bed (QCLB), 4x4, Sport, Original Bosch VP 44 Injection Pump, 6 Speed/NV5600 Transmission, 3.55 Gears, 105k, currently stock engine, Fram Air Filter, 285/75R16s, Glow Shift Gauges: Fuel Pressure (FP), Boost, Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT), Oil Temperature, SMARTY@1, Airtex lift pump 19 psi @ idle, 14 psi @ WOT, Propane Injection, 2 Stroke Oil, Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Fooler = Better MPG, Bed Lined, Chrome Nerf Bars, more to come!!

Toys:
'79 CJ5, 258ci, 3" lift, 33x12.50x15, Stock Engine and 3 Speed Tranny
'05 Suzuki, GSX1300R, Hayabusa, All Stock, #3('00 blown engine, '00 stolen, & '05)
The complete live & learn and pass it on by H. Jackson Brown, Jr.
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  #25  
Old 10-29-2012, 08:07 AM
pri_i_oh pri_i_oh is offline
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Is there any way a vp44 from an 04 ram would work in mine
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  #26  
Old 10-29-2012, 08:57 AM
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I do not think so, the 04 cummins used the common rail system. You would have to have all the electronics, wiring harness, etc. that is attached to the pump and rail. Possibly even the head.
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O.O., 01.5, Dodge, 2500, High Output (H.O.) Cummins Turbo Diesel (245/505), Quad Cab Long Bed (QCLB), 4x4, Sport, Original Bosch VP 44 Injection Pump, 6 Speed/NV5600 Transmission, 3.55 Gears, 105k, currently stock engine, Fram Air Filter, 285/75R16s, Glow Shift Gauges: Fuel Pressure (FP), Boost, Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT), Oil Temperature, SMARTY@1, Airtex lift pump 19 psi @ idle, 14 psi @ WOT, Propane Injection, 2 Stroke Oil, Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Fooler = Better MPG, Bed Lined, Chrome Nerf Bars, more to come!!

Toys:
'79 CJ5, 258ci, 3" lift, 33x12.50x15, Stock Engine and 3 Speed Tranny
'05 Suzuki, GSX1300R, Hayabusa, All Stock, #3('00 blown engine, '00 stolen, & '05)
The complete live & learn and pass it on by H. Jackson Brown, Jr.
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  #27  
Old 11-25-2012, 01:45 PM
pri_i_oh pri_i_oh is offline
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I think I'm gonna get the vp44 kit that includes the raptor 150 lift pump and big line kit. I believe that lift pump mounts where the original lift pump did but I've seen people mount those on the frame. What's better? Advantages? Disadvantages?
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  #28  
Old 11-25-2012, 02:34 PM
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The raptor 150 will mount to the frame rail close to the tank. With the lift pump mounted away from the engine there is less vibration to kill the pump. Plus, when you mount the Raptor near the tank, the pump actually works more efficently, because electric pumps are made to push the fuel to the VP 44 injection pump.

When you change your fuel line, you will either need to lift the bed or drop the tank.

If you lift the bed, make sure to cut the drawstraw long enough to avoid the 1/4 tank issue. What this means is that you will run out of fuel that the drawstraw will pick up at a 1/4 tank because it was not cut long enough.

If you drop the tank, make sure to set the tank on 2 sawhorses where the tank straps go and let the tank rest for about 30 minutes to regain its shape after sitting on the ground. After this time period, cut the drawstraw long enough to touch the bottom of the tank, or the 1/4 tank issue will play out again.

If you place the tank on the ground and cut the drawstraw to fit, you are not accounting for sag that has occurred for the past 10 years with heavy fuel in the tank.

Hope this helps.
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O.O., 01.5, Dodge, 2500, High Output (H.O.) Cummins Turbo Diesel (245/505), Quad Cab Long Bed (QCLB), 4x4, Sport, Original Bosch VP 44 Injection Pump, 6 Speed/NV5600 Transmission, 3.55 Gears, 105k, currently stock engine, Fram Air Filter, 285/75R16s, Glow Shift Gauges: Fuel Pressure (FP), Boost, Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT), Oil Temperature, SMARTY@1, Airtex lift pump 19 psi @ idle, 14 psi @ WOT, Propane Injection, 2 Stroke Oil, Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Fooler = Better MPG, Bed Lined, Chrome Nerf Bars, more to come!!

Toys:
'79 CJ5, 258ci, 3" lift, 33x12.50x15, Stock Engine and 3 Speed Tranny
'05 Suzuki, GSX1300R, Hayabusa, All Stock, #3('00 blown engine, '00 stolen, & '05)
The complete live & learn and pass it on by H. Jackson Brown, Jr.
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  #29  
Old 11-25-2012, 09:19 PM
pri_i_oh pri_i_oh is offline
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yea this helps alot. I will be dropping the tank. Are there any other tips or tricks I need to know in the process of replacing the vp44 or the lift pump. Anything else I need to watch out for? Im going to replace the gas tank straps and the crank sensor too as long as Im going to have the vp out. Figured I may as well at that point.
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  #30  
Old 11-25-2012, 09:51 PM
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stodg73 stodg73 is offline
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Be careful when you replace the VP 44 timing key, it is a little bugger and can easily drop down into the oil pan and then you need to drop the pan to retrieve it. Right before you place the timing key in, clean your hands to attempt to keep the key under control.

While doing all of this, make sure to take your time, do one repair at a time, and mark everything as to where it goes. Ziplock bags work well for this, freezer bags are even better as they have a place to write on them. Have a Sharpie Marker on hand to label stuff. You might invest in a DYMO labeler for the electrical connections as well.

When you put in your new lift pump, make sure to use a relay to turn it on. Also, use at least one size larger wire that it calls for and use a fuse to protect it. Also, make sure that you have a very good ground. Before you drop the tank, find the best spot to mount the Raptor, remove the tank and set it on sawhorses to let it rest, mount the lift pump and get all the lines you can ready to go. Then cut the drawstraw for the tank with a 3/16" V-notch, at the bottom of the tank, on 2 sides to allow fuel to flow in better.

Hope this helps.
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O.O., 01.5, Dodge, 2500, High Output (H.O.) Cummins Turbo Diesel (245/505), Quad Cab Long Bed (QCLB), 4x4, Sport, Original Bosch VP 44 Injection Pump, 6 Speed/NV5600 Transmission, 3.55 Gears, 105k, currently stock engine, Fram Air Filter, 285/75R16s, Glow Shift Gauges: Fuel Pressure (FP), Boost, Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT), Oil Temperature, SMARTY@1, Airtex lift pump 19 psi @ idle, 14 psi @ WOT, Propane Injection, 2 Stroke Oil, Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Fooler = Better MPG, Bed Lined, Chrome Nerf Bars, more to come!!

Toys:
'79 CJ5, 258ci, 3" lift, 33x12.50x15, Stock Engine and 3 Speed Tranny
'05 Suzuki, GSX1300R, Hayabusa, All Stock, #3('00 blown engine, '00 stolen, & '05)
The complete live & learn and pass it on by H. Jackson Brown, Jr.
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