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Old 12-01-2012, 05:55 PM
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stodg73 stodg73 is offline
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Default 2001 Dodge Cummins NV5600 Clutch Master & Slave Cylinder Replacement

Replacing the clutch master and slave cylinder was not as hard as I expected. The hardest part was getting the clip off the clutch pedal and then replacing it.

There are 4 bolts and 2 nuts that have to be removed. The 2 bolts are under the dash and are 5/8”. I used a long socket as it brought the ratchet away from the top clutch pedal. Underneath the truck where the slave cylinder attaches there are 2, 1/2” nuts. If you have 4 wheel drive, the front drive shaft makes it a little bit difficult. For these I used a gear wrench ratchet wrench. Where the fluid reservoir is there are 2 bolts that are 3/8”. I used a 3/8” socket screwdriver.


This is the top reservoir that takes the 3/8" nut driver.


This is the slave cylinder at the transmission. These are the 1/2" nuts.


This is the plastic hold down under the truck near the slave cylinder that you need to pop off.


This is under the dash where the clip attaches to the clutch pedal and the 2 5/8" bolts holding the master cylinder and push rod on. Be careful under here as the steering wheel shaft has some very sharp metal near where you hand/arm will be.


Another hard thing to do was pull out the old equipment. You have to slowly get it out because the tubing wraps around the brake lines.

When installing the new slave cylinder, make sure to not remove the white plastic hold downs. These will break off the first time you depress the clutch. If you do, you will need to order a new setup.


Pics to follow.
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O.O., 01.5, Dodge, 2500, High Output (H.O.) Cummins Turbo Diesel (245/505), Quad Cab Long Bed (QCLB), 4x4, Sport, Original Bosch VP 44 Injection Pump, 6 Speed/NV5600 Transmission, 3.55 Gears, 105k, currently stock engine, Fram Air Filter, 285/75R16s, Glow Shift Gauges: Fuel Pressure (FP), Boost, Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT), Oil Temperature, SMARTY@1, Airtex lift pump 19 psi @ idle, 14 psi @ WOT, Propane Injection, 2 Stroke Oil, Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Fooler = Better MPG, Bed Lined, Chrome Nerf Bars, more to come!!

Toys:
'79 CJ5, 258ci, 3" lift, 33x12.50x15, Stock Engine and 3 Speed Tranny
'05 Suzuki, GSX1300R, Hayabusa, All Stock, #3('00 blown engine, '00 stolen, & '05)
The complete live & learn and pass it on by H. Jackson Brown, Jr.

Last edited by stodg73; 12-03-2012 at 09:25 PM.
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Old 12-01-2012, 10:18 PM
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I assume you using my process of bleeding?
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2002 Dodge Ram 2500, 5.9L Cummins Turbo Diesel, 5 Speed NV4500 transmission, 4x4, 3.55 Gears, AirDog 150 fuel pump with 1/2" Big Line Kit, Stock Bosch VP44 Injection Pump, Bosch RV275 Injectors +40HP, Edge Comp Performance Box, BHAF (Big Honkin' Air Filter), Stock Holset HX35W Turbo, Straight 3" Pipe Exhaust, Crankcase Vent Mod, High Idle Mod, MPG / IAT fooler Mod, ScanGauge II, 25% Tinted Windows, DiPricol Gauges (Fuel pressure, Boost, Pyrometer), 235/85 R16 tires mounted on 16x7 Aluminum mags (weighing 62#), Custom Fog Lights, Custom Backup lights, Silverstar Headlights, 23-24 MPG

1996 Dodge Ram 1500, 5.9L Magnum V8 Gasoline Engine, 46RE Automatic Transmission, 4WD with CAD axle with 3.55 Gears, Mopar Performance PCM, Gutted Kitty, ScanGauge II, 35% Tinted Windows, 16-17 MPG

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Old 12-02-2012, 08:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mopar1973Man View Post
I assume you using my process of bleeding?
Never 'assume' anything. It came pre-bled by the factory.
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O.O., 01.5, Dodge, 2500, High Output (H.O.) Cummins Turbo Diesel (245/505), Quad Cab Long Bed (QCLB), 4x4, Sport, Original Bosch VP 44 Injection Pump, 6 Speed/NV5600 Transmission, 3.55 Gears, 105k, currently stock engine, Fram Air Filter, 285/75R16s, Glow Shift Gauges: Fuel Pressure (FP), Boost, Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT), Oil Temperature, SMARTY@1, Airtex lift pump 19 psi @ idle, 14 psi @ WOT, Propane Injection, 2 Stroke Oil, Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Fooler = Better MPG, Bed Lined, Chrome Nerf Bars, more to come!!

Toys:
'79 CJ5, 258ci, 3" lift, 33x12.50x15, Stock Engine and 3 Speed Tranny
'05 Suzuki, GSX1300R, Hayabusa, All Stock, #3('00 blown engine, '00 stolen, & '05)
The complete live & learn and pass it on by H. Jackson Brown, Jr.
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Old 12-03-2012, 09:26 PM
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stodg73 stodg73 is offline
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Pictures posted.
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O.O., 01.5, Dodge, 2500, High Output (H.O.) Cummins Turbo Diesel (245/505), Quad Cab Long Bed (QCLB), 4x4, Sport, Original Bosch VP 44 Injection Pump, 6 Speed/NV5600 Transmission, 3.55 Gears, 105k, currently stock engine, Fram Air Filter, 285/75R16s, Glow Shift Gauges: Fuel Pressure (FP), Boost, Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT), Oil Temperature, SMARTY@1, Airtex lift pump 19 psi @ idle, 14 psi @ WOT, Propane Injection, 2 Stroke Oil, Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Fooler = Better MPG, Bed Lined, Chrome Nerf Bars, more to come!!

Toys:
'79 CJ5, 258ci, 3" lift, 33x12.50x15, Stock Engine and 3 Speed Tranny
'05 Suzuki, GSX1300R, Hayabusa, All Stock, #3('00 blown engine, '00 stolen, & '05)
The complete live & learn and pass it on by H. Jackson Brown, Jr.
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Old 12-04-2012, 08:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stodg73 View Post
Pictures posted.
Looks good! The pictures help!!
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1996 RAM "Custom Ground" 100 plate 3/4 forward, 300 injectors, 16.5 timing, Goerends Auto = 365HP, 833TQ Third Gen Rims, Aluminum Headache Rack
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Old 12-04-2012, 09:29 AM
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Just for the sake of the thread. You don't have to buy sealed units. You can buy both master and slave cylinders and replace them yourself. Like Stodg73 showed, with full removal, you remove the entire system plumbing and all. Then replace both master and slave cylinders. During the slave replacement make sure to release the rod and fill the entire slave cylinder up with fluid. Then assemble the slave to the line. While you have it hanging just push the slave rod in rapidly and release slowly. This forces the air up the line to the reservoir and slowly letting up hopefully not to draw air back in. Few extra steps but it will save you some money.
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2002 Dodge Ram 2500, 5.9L Cummins Turbo Diesel, 5 Speed NV4500 transmission, 4x4, 3.55 Gears, AirDog 150 fuel pump with 1/2" Big Line Kit, Stock Bosch VP44 Injection Pump, Bosch RV275 Injectors +40HP, Edge Comp Performance Box, BHAF (Big Honkin' Air Filter), Stock Holset HX35W Turbo, Straight 3" Pipe Exhaust, Crankcase Vent Mod, High Idle Mod, MPG / IAT fooler Mod, ScanGauge II, 25% Tinted Windows, DiPricol Gauges (Fuel pressure, Boost, Pyrometer), 235/85 R16 tires mounted on 16x7 Aluminum mags (weighing 62#), Custom Fog Lights, Custom Backup lights, Silverstar Headlights, 23-24 MPG

1996 Dodge Ram 1500, 5.9L Magnum V8 Gasoline Engine, 46RE Automatic Transmission, 4WD with CAD axle with 3.55 Gears, Mopar Performance PCM, Gutted Kitty, ScanGauge II, 35% Tinted Windows, 16-17 MPG


Last edited by stodg73; 12-04-2012 at 10:08 AM.
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Old 12-04-2012, 10:10 AM
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I pick the easiest route to go for replacing the clutch master and slave cylinders. This saved me time, as I was doing it by myself. Like Mopar1973man said, you do not have to purchase the entire unit, you can purchase either one and replace whichever is worn or not sealing properly.
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O.O., 01.5, Dodge, 2500, High Output (H.O.) Cummins Turbo Diesel (245/505), Quad Cab Long Bed (QCLB), 4x4, Sport, Original Bosch VP 44 Injection Pump, 6 Speed/NV5600 Transmission, 3.55 Gears, 105k, currently stock engine, Fram Air Filter, 285/75R16s, Glow Shift Gauges: Fuel Pressure (FP), Boost, Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT), Oil Temperature, SMARTY@1, Airtex lift pump 19 psi @ idle, 14 psi @ WOT, Propane Injection, 2 Stroke Oil, Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Fooler = Better MPG, Bed Lined, Chrome Nerf Bars, more to come!!

Toys:
'79 CJ5, 258ci, 3" lift, 33x12.50x15, Stock Engine and 3 Speed Tranny
'05 Suzuki, GSX1300R, Hayabusa, All Stock, #3('00 blown engine, '00 stolen, & '05)
The complete live & learn and pass it on by H. Jackson Brown, Jr.
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Old 12-05-2012, 09:19 AM
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But (for the sake of an argument) if the slave cylinder is worn to the point of failing why wouldn't the master cylinder be worn too? They both see the same use.
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1996 RAM "Custom Ground" 100 plate 3/4 forward, 300 injectors, 16.5 timing, Goerends Auto = 365HP, 833TQ Third Gen Rims, Aluminum Headache Rack
Duct Tape can't fix stupid, BUT it can muffle the sound
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Old 12-05-2012, 10:03 AM
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Correct...
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Michael Nelson - AKA: Mopar1973Man - Forum & Articles
2002 Dodge Ram 2500, 5.9L Cummins Turbo Diesel, 5 Speed NV4500 transmission, 4x4, 3.55 Gears, AirDog 150 fuel pump with 1/2" Big Line Kit, Stock Bosch VP44 Injection Pump, Bosch RV275 Injectors +40HP, Edge Comp Performance Box, BHAF (Big Honkin' Air Filter), Stock Holset HX35W Turbo, Straight 3" Pipe Exhaust, Crankcase Vent Mod, High Idle Mod, MPG / IAT fooler Mod, ScanGauge II, 25% Tinted Windows, DiPricol Gauges (Fuel pressure, Boost, Pyrometer), 235/85 R16 tires mounted on 16x7 Aluminum mags (weighing 62#), Custom Fog Lights, Custom Backup lights, Silverstar Headlights, 23-24 MPG

1996 Dodge Ram 1500, 5.9L Magnum V8 Gasoline Engine, 46RE Automatic Transmission, 4WD with CAD axle with 3.55 Gears, Mopar Performance PCM, Gutted Kitty, ScanGauge II, 35% Tinted Windows, 16-17 MPG

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Old 08-17-2013, 10:04 PM
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I replaced my slave about 1.5 to 2 years after the master went out. The old one was still working fine but I was putting in another tranny and had it out anyway. I thought they would have gone about the same time also.
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