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Old 03-30-2013, 06:01 AM
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MnTom MnTom is offline
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Default ABS Light

Hey guys, my ABS light decided it wanted to come on and could use a little help figuring out why. I have RWAL (no 4 wheel abs) and the light is off when I start the truck. Once I get to about 25 MPH the light comes on and stays on until I shut the truck off. My speedometer works just like it is supposed to so I don't believe it is the sensor in the rear end. Any ideas?
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1996 RAM "Custom Ground" 100 plate 3/4 forward, 300 injectors, 16.5 timing, Goerends Auto = 365HP, 833TQ Third Gen Rims, Aluminum Headache Rack
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Old 03-30-2013, 03:00 PM
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Still wouldn't hurt to pull it out and clean the fine iron fuzzies off it if it's been a while since the last diff oil change, I have seen this cause the light to come on a lot of rigs, I also drive a lot of gravel and had to repair the wires to the sensor on top of the diff several times as the gravel just eats it up over time.
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Old 03-30-2013, 04:00 PM
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Thanks, Bill. When I get the chance I will pull it and see what it does. It will be a while before I can pull it since I am working 6 nights a week until the end of the month...... I will be glad to see daylight again, I have been working nights since about October.
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1996 RAM "Custom Ground" 100 plate 3/4 forward, 300 injectors, 16.5 timing, Goerends Auto = 365HP, 833TQ Third Gen Rims, Aluminum Headache Rack
Duct Tape can't fix stupid, BUT it can muffle the sound
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Old 06-03-2013, 08:56 PM
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I FINALLY got the ABS light to stay out. Turns out the brakelight switch failed. The brake light switch had one circuit (there are three switches in it) that did not shut off. It also fixed my cruise control AND made my O/D function better. The way I found it was to use a test light and probe the OBD II connector wire that is the third wire from the left in the bottom row. The ABS light will flash the trouble code and in my case the code was 11 for the brake light switch being stuck on. See this thread:http://dieseltrucksite.com/showthrea...=6981#post6981 I replaced the switch (got the replacement at Auto Zone for $15) in a couple of minutes and was on my way! All you do to replace it is turn the switch about 30* counter clock wise and it will pop right out. The plug is an easy plug to pull and the 'stem' of the new switch is adjustable too. The way to adjust the stem is to pull it all the way out (it will stop), press on the brake pedal, and install the switch the opposite way the old one came out. It does help to pull the knee bolster so you can see things easier.
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1996 RAM "Custom Ground" 100 plate 3/4 forward, 300 injectors, 16.5 timing, Goerends Auto = 365HP, 833TQ Third Gen Rims, Aluminum Headache Rack
Duct Tape can't fix stupid, BUT it can muffle the sound

Last edited by MnTom; 06-03-2013 at 09:00 PM.
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Old 06-04-2013, 08:08 AM
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Wow that must be nice to get ABS trouble codes in the OBDII port.
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2002 Dodge Ram 2500, 5.9L Cummins Turbo Diesel, 5 Speed NV4500 transmission, 4x4, 3.55 Gears, AirDog 150 fuel pump with 1/2" Big Line Kit, Stock Bosch VP44 Injection Pump, Bosch RV275 Injectors +40HP, Edge Comp Performance Box, BHAF (Big Honkin' Air Filter), Stock Holset HX35W Turbo, Straight 3" Pipe Exhaust, Crankcase Vent Mod, High Idle Mod, MPG / IAT fooler Mod, ScanGauge II, 25% Tinted Windows, DiPricol Gauges (Fuel pressure, Boost, Pyrometer), 235/85 R16 tires mounted on 16x7 Aluminum mags (weighing 62#), Custom Fog Lights, Custom Backup lights, Silverstar Headlights, 23-24 MPG

1996 Dodge Ram 1500, 5.9L Magnum V8 Gasoline Engine, 46RE Automatic Transmission, 4WD with CAD axle with 3.55 Gears, Mopar Performance PCM, Gutted Kitty, ScanGauge II, 35% Tinted Windows, 16-17 MPG

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Old 06-04-2013, 10:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mopar1973Man View Post
Wow that must be nice to get ABS trouble codes in the OBDII port.
Yep!! Although with the correct scanner you can too! I never would have thought that a brake light switch could trigger an ABS code. I figured it was the rear axle speed sensor........
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1996 RAM "Custom Ground" 100 plate 3/4 forward, 300 injectors, 16.5 timing, Goerends Auto = 365HP, 833TQ Third Gen Rims, Aluminum Headache Rack
Duct Tape can't fix stupid, BUT it can muffle the sound
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Old 06-05-2013, 12:13 AM
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Mopar1973Man Mopar1973Man is offline
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Well I learned 2 things from your post.

1. Brake light switch can be a cause.
2. ABS codes can be read via flash codes.

Thanks MnTom...
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2002 Dodge Ram 2500, 5.9L Cummins Turbo Diesel, 5 Speed NV4500 transmission, 4x4, 3.55 Gears, AirDog 150 fuel pump with 1/2" Big Line Kit, Stock Bosch VP44 Injection Pump, Bosch RV275 Injectors +40HP, Edge Comp Performance Box, BHAF (Big Honkin' Air Filter), Stock Holset HX35W Turbo, Straight 3" Pipe Exhaust, Crankcase Vent Mod, High Idle Mod, MPG / IAT fooler Mod, ScanGauge II, 25% Tinted Windows, DiPricol Gauges (Fuel pressure, Boost, Pyrometer), 235/85 R16 tires mounted on 16x7 Aluminum mags (weighing 62#), Custom Fog Lights, Custom Backup lights, Silverstar Headlights, 23-24 MPG

1996 Dodge Ram 1500, 5.9L Magnum V8 Gasoline Engine, 46RE Automatic Transmission, 4WD with CAD axle with 3.55 Gears, Mopar Performance PCM, Gutted Kitty, ScanGauge II, 35% Tinted Windows, 16-17 MPG

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Old 06-05-2013, 07:55 AM
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I didn't know the switch could cause codes to be thrown by the ABS either! We all learned!
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1996 RAM "Custom Ground" 100 plate 3/4 forward, 300 injectors, 16.5 timing, Goerends Auto = 365HP, 833TQ Third Gen Rims, Aluminum Headache Rack
Duct Tape can't fix stupid, BUT it can muffle the sound
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