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  #1  
Old 04-27-2013, 06:32 AM
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rdsutton rdsutton is offline
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Default Axle swap

Has anyone here swapped out stub/outer axles on a 98 and put in 2000/2002 axles and bearings? I have looked at and measured both axles and bearings, 02 axle just a bit shorter, inner bearing the same, 02 has the studs in the bearing flange. Both use the same u joint and mount to the knuckle on the 4 bolt holes. My goal is to have the free float rotor with the newer set up.

Please include any pics and if you had to modify anything to make it work. Thanks Dave.
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Old 04-29-2013, 05:31 AM
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Dave, you mean just the hubs? Far as I know the main thing is to make sure you have hubs off of the same axle (either a Dana 70 or 80). I have thought about putting disc brakes on the rear of mine, but haven't done anything yet. I would probably swap the complete axle on mine.
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Old 04-29-2013, 05:52 AM
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Default Did it

FWIW, this will NOT work on the front dana 60 axle for the following, 1st, the 02 bearing and flange has a narrower profile, lip where dust shield rides next to yoke on stub axle. 2nd, rotor will not set centered in caliper because of the bear profile. 3rd, I found all this out by trial assembly, when stub axle, hub bearing attached to inner axle and attached to 98 knuckle and you start to tighten axle nut, it all binds, will not turn. The 02 axle and bearing draw the u joint to deep into the knuckle. I had to see for myself, and waste a day of my precious time!! I hope this saves some one else some time, thanks Dave
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98 3500 4X CC with a flatbed, A work in progress, BHAF, Banks Big horn, 4" MBRP, 4GSK, AFC, #10, Draw straw I with 1/2 supply to LP, 3/8 return, 16* time. Soon $$ Injectors & Turbo.
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Old 04-29-2013, 03:02 PM
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Oh, I thought you were just doing the rear axle. That sounds like a lot of work for just the free floating rotors. What other benefits did you achieve?
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Old 04-29-2013, 06:33 PM
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Not a lot, but I assure you I'm spending the $$$ now. You remember me talked to ya months ago about doing this? After all the reading, research, and asking, I still plowed ahead. Wrong move, this one will cost me 2K over what I already have spent... 2nd mistake, took it to an axle shop. Ya follow now... Been on there rack for 4D now, not cheap, and ME telling them that this would WK.... Big lesson learned. The bearings had 180K and were getten weak, rotors were toast, so I had to do something. After the SWAP didn't work, the next thing was $$$$ a free spin hub kit frm Yukon, now I'm kicking myself for not buying the ford axle and doing the knuckle swap myself. Maybe AFTER I turn 50 this yr Ill have that all encompassing wisdom I keep hearing about.. I hope My mistake saves some down the line. Dave's mistake
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98 3500 4X CC with a flatbed, A work in progress, BHAF, Banks Big horn, 4" MBRP, 4GSK, AFC, #10, Draw straw I with 1/2 supply to LP, 3/8 return, 16* time. Soon $$ Injectors & Turbo.
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Old 05-03-2013, 06:01 AM
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That sucks, Dave. Too bad it got so expensive, it could have been a great mod!
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Old 10-04-2013, 09:07 AM
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Hey brothers, been on the site for some time an never an interdiction but have used your advice. I did a swap on my very first diesel ever, gasser to a 5.9 Cummins on 99 3500 4x4 dully Quad. I built the truck to haul a 35' 5th wheel cross country for the next year an need advice on which axle will suite my needs. I have 4.10 gears and was told that I should use 3.54's, how will it change the pulling? Thanks for your time. PS, I just installed a built TSI trans with fat shafts and billet trip torque.

Last edited by stodg73; 10-04-2013 at 09:56 AM.
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Old 10-04-2013, 09:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nativex View Post
Hey brothers, been on the site for some time an never an interdiction but have used your advice. I did a swap on my very first diesel ever, gasser to a 5.9 Cummins on 99 3500 4x4 dully Quad. I built the truck to haul a 35' 5th wheel cross country for the next year an need advice on which axle will suite my needs. I have 4.10 gears and was told that I should use 3.54's, how will it change the pulling? Thanks for your time. PS, I just installed a built TSI trans with fat shafts and billet trip torque.
How much does the 5'er weigh. You may want to try it with the 4.10's instead of changing them out for 3.54's. This will tell you what you need to know. You may end up having to use 3.73's instead. Then you will have to purchase 2 sets of gears or find matching axles to put back under the truck.

Next which engine did you use, a 12 valve or 24 valve or Common Rail?
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Old 10-04-2013, 10:05 AM
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Since you have an auto I would think that the 4:10 gears would be better for a fiver that size. I have a 28' fiver and it pulls great, but my GVW is only about 17k. I would guess that your GVW will be about 18-to-20k. Another question is how much power is your truck putting to the ground? Stock or above?
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1996 RAM "Custom Ground" 100 plate 3/4 forward, 300 injectors, 16.5 timing, Goerends Auto = 365HP, 833TQ Third Gen Rims, Aluminum Headache Rack
Duct Tape can't fix stupid, BUT it can muffle the sound
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Old 10-04-2013, 10:41 AM
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For starters it's a 12v and the 5'vr is around 17 to 18, just last weekend I pulled it for roughly 250 miles, lots of hills and going up was good until I lost speed. I had to back way off and just peddle it ever so slowly.
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