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  #1  
Old 01-10-2014, 08:50 PM
rich6111 rich6111 is offline
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Default driveshaft

Can I remove rear driveshaft and drive it to see if I have vibration. Will it loose trans oil. Can I put water bottle over tail shaft to catch oil? Thanks
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  #2  
Old 01-10-2014, 09:13 PM
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Do you have the single (one piece)or split driveshaft with carrier bearing?

If you have the single, no because the trans will puke everything out the tailshaft. You could possibly put a bottle over the tailshaft, do not re-use the fluid that came out. In other words, yes, with the catch bottle.

If you have the split shaft, just take the rear shaft off.
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Old 01-10-2014, 09:51 PM
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Rich, what kind of vibration are you having and when does it present itself? Is it constant, is it only when accelerating, or slowing down? Any certain speed where it is worse? Do you feel it more in the steering wheel or more in the floor?
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Old 01-10-2014, 10:44 PM
rich6111 rich6111 is offline
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Default driveshaft

Small vib.Less when you let off the gas. I have changed all joints and carrier and all joints on front. 55 to 65. 2 piece shaft. I just want to remove shaft to see if it goes away. There is a little up and down movement in the yolk in the tail housing. It is like a churning noise,I think I hear it more than feel it. 2003 with 60,000. miles. Never plowed or pulled.
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Old 01-10-2014, 10:53 PM
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That sounds a lot like a tire problem. Did it just start? How are the tires wearing? Have they been rotated any? I am wondering if it is a dynamic balance issue, but like Stodg73 said, you can pull the rear section of the rear shaft.
After thinking about it for a bit, that really sounds like a front bearing in the beginning stages of failure. Jack up the front end, spin the wheels, and listen for any extra noise, rough sounds, etc. Then see if you can get ANY play out of the bearings by lifting up on the tires. Just do me a favor and make sure you use jack stands to check out the bearings.
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Duct Tape can't fix stupid, BUT it can muffle the sound

Last edited by MnTom; 01-10-2014 at 10:57 PM.
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  #6  
Old 01-11-2014, 08:08 AM
rich6111 rich6111 is offline
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Default Driveshaft

Both front tires have scallops. Never been rotated,20,000 miles on tires.
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Old 01-11-2014, 08:46 AM
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What kind of road are you driving on? Is it concrete, is your truck an extended/quad cab long bed?

Does the vibration go away after getting past 65 and below 55.

Does the truck vibrate on another road at the same speed?

Do you have the balancing sand or wheel weights?

Did you make sure and clock the driveshafts the same when you changed the u-joints?
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O.O., 01.5, Dodge, 2500, High Output (H.O.) Cummins Turbo Diesel (245/505), Quad Cab Long Bed (QCLB), 4x4, Sport, Original Bosch VP 44 Injection Pump, 6 Speed/NV5600 Transmission, 3.55 Gears, 105k, currently stock engine, Fram Air Filter, 285/75R16s, Glow Shift Gauges: Fuel Pressure (FP), Boost, Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT), Oil Temperature, SMARTY@1, Airtex lift pump 19 psi @ idle, 14 psi @ WOT, Propane Injection, 2 Stroke Oil, Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Fooler = Better MPG, Bed Lined, Chrome Nerf Bars, more to come!!

Toys:
'79 CJ5, 258ci, 3" lift, 33x12.50x15, Stock Engine and 3 Speed Tranny
'05 Suzuki, GSX1300R, Hayabusa, All Stock, #3('00 blown engine, '00 stolen, & '05)
The complete live & learn and pass it on by H. Jackson Brown, Jr.
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  #8  
Old 01-11-2014, 08:53 AM
rich6111 rich6111 is offline
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Default driveshaft

asphalt, gets a little less .same on other roads. weights. driveshaft was clocked.
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Old 01-11-2014, 09:00 AM
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That rules out the road, mine has a very bad vibration between 55 & 65 on concrete interstates. Feels like your guts are gonna shake out.

If you went faster or slower, the suspension has time to work.

Again, ruled out the road.

The balancing sand really does not work well.

When I had my u-joints replaced the first time, they did not clock it right. It wore out the seal.
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O.O., 01.5, Dodge, 2500, High Output (H.O.) Cummins Turbo Diesel (245/505), Quad Cab Long Bed (QCLB), 4x4, Sport, Original Bosch VP 44 Injection Pump, 6 Speed/NV5600 Transmission, 3.55 Gears, 105k, currently stock engine, Fram Air Filter, 285/75R16s, Glow Shift Gauges: Fuel Pressure (FP), Boost, Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT), Oil Temperature, SMARTY@1, Airtex lift pump 19 psi @ idle, 14 psi @ WOT, Propane Injection, 2 Stroke Oil, Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Fooler = Better MPG, Bed Lined, Chrome Nerf Bars, more to come!!

Toys:
'79 CJ5, 258ci, 3" lift, 33x12.50x15, Stock Engine and 3 Speed Tranny
'05 Suzuki, GSX1300R, Hayabusa, All Stock, #3('00 blown engine, '00 stolen, & '05)
The complete live & learn and pass it on by H. Jackson Brown, Jr.
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  #10  
Old 01-11-2014, 09:36 AM
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You might try this: Death Wobble
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O.O., 01.5, Dodge, 2500, High Output (H.O.) Cummins Turbo Diesel (245/505), Quad Cab Long Bed (QCLB), 4x4, Sport, Original Bosch VP 44 Injection Pump, 6 Speed/NV5600 Transmission, 3.55 Gears, 105k, currently stock engine, Fram Air Filter, 285/75R16s, Glow Shift Gauges: Fuel Pressure (FP), Boost, Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT), Oil Temperature, SMARTY@1, Airtex lift pump 19 psi @ idle, 14 psi @ WOT, Propane Injection, 2 Stroke Oil, Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Fooler = Better MPG, Bed Lined, Chrome Nerf Bars, more to come!!

Toys:
'79 CJ5, 258ci, 3" lift, 33x12.50x15, Stock Engine and 3 Speed Tranny
'05 Suzuki, GSX1300R, Hayabusa, All Stock, #3('00 blown engine, '00 stolen, & '05)
The complete live & learn and pass it on by H. Jackson Brown, Jr.
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