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  #51  
Old 03-15-2014, 04:33 PM
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I hear ya there. I feel for you guys in the upper eastern part of the states. Some seriously frigid arctic weather this year.....and for a long time too. For us westerners, its been really nice but really dry as well. There's literally zero snow where it should be 3-4' thick and that concerning. Yeah were getting some rain now but its still so warm out that without that snow pack, not sure what the summer water levels are going to be like. Strange weather this year for sure.
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  #52  
Old 03-15-2014, 07:31 PM
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We got the snow. So far about 7 1/2 feet of it and no 'January Thaw' that we normally see. We had about 3 feet on the ground just last week. You guys out there are gonna have one hell of a fire season, that's for sure. I guess I would rather have the cold than the drought. Now that we have successfully derailed this thread, what should we do next??
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  #53  
Old 03-15-2014, 08:10 PM
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This thread was derailed many posts ago..... Obviously you and I are the only ones with input.

As for CA "fire season", well since CAL Fire and all the other CA fire depts make their annual income on overtime during the summer, we can always guarantee there to be quite a few fires. No one ever knows how they start either but hey.....they need to be put out. True story, years ago it was discovered that a fire detective who was investigating the origin of random fires was the one starting them. Go figure.....

Anyways back on topic. What was they electric water pump you pictured? Is this something actually for the Cummins or something you wish was for the Cummins?
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  #54  
Old 03-15-2014, 08:21 PM
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The electric water pump is something marketed more for the race crowd from what I have seen, but there have been guys running them in their daily drivers. The only complaint I have seen is that the engines are slower to warm up. They pump about 50 GPM so I would think they would be sufficient for just about anything I would do. If you Google "Cummins 5.9 Electric Fuel Pump" you get 142,000 pages to look at. Like I said, the cost is what keeps me from even considering it. After thinking some more about the pressure build up, I wonder since the commercial 5.9 engines use a water outlet on the rear of the block, is there some way to put a by-pass on the rear of the 12V? Even something like a 1" tee where the temp sending unit is and then running like a 3/4" hose to the lower radiator hose?
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  #55  
Old 03-15-2014, 08:27 PM
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Listen to this guy try to explain the electric pump:
He needs to learn to keep his mouth closed! Listen to him explain the difference between a generator and an alternator. WOW........
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  #56  
Old 03-15-2014, 08:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MnTom View Post
The electric water pump is something marketed more for the race crowd from what I have seen, but there have been guys running them in their daily drivers. The only complaint I have seen is that the engines are slower to warm up. They pump about 50 GPM so I would think they would be sufficient for just about anything I would do. If you Google "Cummins 5.9 Electric Fuel Pump" you get 142,000 pages to look at. Like I said, the cost is what keeps me from even considering it. After thinking some more about the pressure build up, I wonder since the commercial 5.9 engines use a water outlet on the rear of the block, is there some way to put a by-pass on the rear of the 12V? Even something like a 1" tee where the temp sending unit is and then running like a 3/4" hose to the lower radiator hose?
Yes, there is something. I have to look for it but its a genuine Cummins part that turns that rear freeze plug into an outlet. Let me see if I can find it.
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  #57  
Old 03-15-2014, 08:53 PM
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The problem with the rear outlet is they won't fit on our trucks. That is why I was thinking of another way to put a rear outlet on there. Next question, Do you think it would help with the temperature swing? I am thinking that the water pump is moving so much water that it dumps the heated water into the radiator and by the time the thermostat can react it is getting hit with relatively 'cold' water. The 24V engines have a by-pass built it under the thrermostat from what I understand.
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  #58  
Old 03-16-2014, 01:55 AM
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Well.....

1) That video was hilarious. Why would someone post a 5 minute video of them rambling on about something they're clearly clueless on?

2) I know there's freeze plug bypass kits which fit your truck. Here's a few links regarding:
http://www.xtremediesel.com/fleece-f...ypass-kit.aspx
http://www.dieselpowermag.com/tech/d...eeze_plug_fix/
http://keatingmachine.com/products/e...s/engine-parts

Nothings cheap but if its something you're interested in then at least you know what and where.

3) I understand what you're saying about the temp swing and yes, I agree. I think we kinda understood why the problem is a problem at all much earlier in the thread. These trucks have huge cooling systems for towing heavy. Will a bypass stop temp swing?.....I'm not sure and I'd lean more on the probably not side. The bypass is a great idea in order to keep the engine temp more consistent across all the cylinders. The rear two get hotter than the others and is the reason why we tap the rear bank exhaust port so we understand those cylinders produce the hottest EGT's.

I tried something simple by just adding a second outlet line from the coolant port between #5 and #6 but I'm not sure if its really adding much coolant flow. I know my engine temps are a little different after but really I think the rear freeze plug bypass is the best way.
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  #59  
Old 03-16-2014, 09:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KATOOM View Post

I tried something simple by just adding a second outlet line from the coolant port between #5 and #6 but I'm not sure if its really adding much coolant flow. I know my engine temps are a little different after but really I think the rear freeze plug bypass is the best way.
This is what I was wondering about. I know your 24V head has plugs that can be removed to access the coolant. What do you mean your engine temps are a little different?
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  #60  
Old 03-16-2014, 07:12 PM
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This is what I did. I was going to run it directly into the inlet of the core but for sake of not fully understanding what it would do running from the last coolant port into the core or why Cummins/Dodge chose the #4-5 port instead of the #5-6 port, it was suggested that I tie into the outlet line in case there was any pressure increase.

You asked about the temps..... Well it wasnt drastic but I did notice that my temps seem to be more steady overall. Not meaning that there was any swing but more like instead it would run a little cooler during specific loads and driving conditions. My only assumption why that is would be because there's more coolant flowing around the back cylinders.

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