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  #61  
Old 03-16-2014, 08:12 PM
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Thanks for the picture. That is kind of what I was thinking, but on a 12V the temp sensor is on hte other side of the head and has 1" pipe threads. What I was thinking was to put a 1" tee right off the head with the sensor in one port and a 3/4" line to the front of the engine to keep from having to much pressure at higher RPMs. I am also thinking it may slow down the water flowing through the radiator. I am not sure about the belt driven water pumps, but if the electric is set for 1800 RPM and moves 50 GPM that means it CAN (at least in theory) completely exchange all the coolant in about 5 seconds. That is way too fast in my opinion and contributes to the fluctuation. I am not sure where to tie the return into (thinking the lower radiator hose) and I would also make sure I had a valve on it to shut it off IF it was moving to much and not enough through the radiator. I really don't see that as a problem, but it is something to keep in mind. What are your thoughts on my idea?
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  #62  
Old 03-16-2014, 08:30 PM
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I'm not sure I fully understand what you mean. Maybe a picture of where and what you're talking might help. Or even a drawing.....
As for the 50 gpm rating, who knows if it will pump that volume while mounted to the engine given casting restrictions and small ports, etc..... I just wouldn't want anything else running off the electrical system. I know that racing applications will use electric driven items like this to reduce power consumption but I would have to be certain that using it in day to day driving would be worth the cost and effort.
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  #63  
Old 03-16-2014, 08:37 PM
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This is what my temp sender looks like:

It is behind the fuel filter almost to the firewall with the connector pointing to the left side of the truck. The threads are 1" pipe thread so that is why I would use 1" fittings.
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  #64  
Old 03-16-2014, 09:19 PM
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So basically you're wanting to run a dedicated coolant line from the rear of the engine where the sensor is to some location more forward, or into the return coolant line into the radiator? In essence you're trying to open up the flow around the rear cylinders. That seems plausible but you just have to make sure that you dont bypass the thermostat otherwise the engine will never warm up or be able to regulate when its hot. I'm not sure of the coolant schematics for the 12 valve so I dont know if what you're thinking will or will not do that.
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  #65  
Old 03-16-2014, 09:23 PM
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That is pretty much what I want to do, but it won't be by-passing the thermostat since the return flow from the head will flow into the return for the pump so it will circulate from the pump to the back of the head to the lower radiator hose and back to the pump. My biggest concern would be by-passing to much water and having the truck want to overheat. The cooling system is quite similar to the 24v.
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  #66  
Old 03-16-2014, 11:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MnTom View Post
That is pretty much what I want to do, but it won't be by-passing the thermostat since the return flow from the head will flow into the return for the pump so it will circulate from the pump to the back of the head to the lower radiator hose and back to the pump. My biggest concern would be by-passing to much water and having the truck want to overheat. The cooling system is quite similar to the 24v.
Thats the job of the thermostat.....as long as its working properly. That is as long as the sensor port is located whereby the coolant is making its full loop. You dont want coolant taking an alternate route reducing flow where it should be.
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  #67  
Old 03-17-2014, 09:03 AM
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That is what I am concerned about. Let's just throw some numbers out. Say the water pump is actually pumping 25 GPM instead of the 50 GPM it is rated for. Install a by-pass that allows water to flow from the water pump to the rear of the head and back to the water pump (what my by-pass would do) that would move 5 GPM. That gives 20 GPM to cool the engine. At that rate since the cooling system holds 4 gallons then it would have the capability of exchanging the coolant 5 times a minute.
The thermostat would still be in the picture just like it is now, but with slightly less flow. Since the by-pass would be slowing the water flow down slightly I wonder if it would allow the coolant to collect more heat and then it would have more time to dump the heat in the radiator? Maybe it would do what I am thinking or would it exacerbate the temp swing since the radiator would be more efficient?
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  #68  
Old 03-17-2014, 01:43 PM
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What you're describing sounds logical as in reality thats how the coolant system functions currently but unfortunately the flow around the rear cylinders isnt as good as it could be. So by you allowing that coolant a passage to come back around to the water pump again only to be recirculated back seems like it would help regulate the overall temp of the engine and the entire cooling system. Again, I'm only doing all this in my head and have no real idea of where on the engine your bypass system would exit and enter so dont take my word on it. But if you have the time then I dont see where it would hurt to try it and see what the results are. You can always put it back.
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'01 2500 Sport 4x4 5spd, EZ, RV275's, 4" without muffler, no silencer ring, aFe intake, 2 lo kit, Isspro Boost, fuel pressure, and EGT all on pillar, Westach Transmission/Differential temp gauge in dash pod, Fast Coolers/exhaust blanket, Raptor 100 with big line kit, Pac Brake, Rancho 9000's, Custom Diesel steering box brace, 285's
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  #69  
Old 03-17-2014, 06:52 PM
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Here is a picture of where the temperature sender is on my truck. I was looking at a picture of the head gasket and I question if there would be enough flow through the head to accomplish what I am aiming for. I also put a picture of the headgasket so you will see what I mean. I don't know if it will allow more circulation around the last two cylinders or just increase flow through the head.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 6bhead.jpg (59.1 KB, 6 views)
File Type: jpeg 6BTgasket.jpeg (6.5 KB, 7 views)
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  #70  
Old 03-17-2014, 11:18 PM
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Interesting design..... At least the coolant sensor is located back where the hottest portion of the coolant is. That either tells me that Cummins recognized the stale coolant back there or that they couldnt find a place for it up front.
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